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I would like to acknowledge Prof. Taro Arikawa for his supervision and Prof. Yoshiyuki Kaneda for his support.
This experiment aims to experience the tsunami forces on human body even for low amplitude waves. The wave height exerted on one leg is 30 cm and current velocity and pressure reach up to 0.4 m/sec and 1900 N/m2, respectively. I am 1.78m tall!
Although the initial wave height was not so high and the wave was broken before reaching the shoreline, it was so difficult to stand against the strong wave currents without dragging. As a tsunami modeller, it is precious to experience the effect and the real meaning of hydrodynamic parameters on my body that I calculate by tsunami numerical modeling.