Thank you for your interest in this guide. But before reading the rest of it, we would like to start off by stating a few reminders:

• FIRST: Obviously, this guide will NOT grant you a perfect chance of winning in any GTA Online race but this guide may help you in becoming the best driver you can be in the game.
  
• SECOND: We guarantee you that this guide is not all the time correct and by that we highly encourage you to write every misheard information down in the comments and maybe one of us will review them and correct whatever is needed to correct.
  
• THIRD: If you have any questions and or want to ask any clarifications in this guide, tell them down in the comments as well.
  
• LAST: You can also learn from this guide if you are coming from a different platform.

The vehicle, a machine that either has 2 to 6 wheels and runs. Your vehicle is one of the important aspects of racing, and the most important is yourself because you are the one who drives it. To get one, you can either steal one on the streets of Los Santos or buy one on in-game sites like Legendary Motorsport and Southern San Andreas Auto Sport.

The vehicles in the game are divided into classes namely Supers, Sports, Sports Classics, Muscles, Motorcycles, Off-Roads, SUVs, Coupes and Sedans.

All vehicles in the game have different characteristics. Meaning that some do pretty good in corners whilst sacrificing top speed while some do pretty bad in corners in favor of top speed. Some are just carbon copies of the same vehicle but do differ in looks (e.g. Western Gargoyle and Western Cliffhanger or Bati 801 and Bati 801RR) and some are upgraded versions of the same vehicle (e.g. Pfister Comet and Pfister Comet SR or Dinka Jester and Dinka Jester Racecar).

For now, we will not go any deeper in this part of the chapter and we shall proceed straight forward to the vehicles you need in order to be competitive in races.

As we said a while ago, every car has its own unique features. In addition to a while ago, Some tackle corners quickly, some go faster in tubes, some do very good at absorbing curbs and some are heavy enough to absorb bumps from players that ram you especially in race lobbies with contact, slipstream, and catch-up are set to "on".

What is shown below is a comprehensive list of the top performing vehicles of each class you'll be needing to get in order to be competitive against other racers (not including special vehicles). We will only include the best-suited ones based on our experience with every vehicle. If the car isn't on the list, or you think that it should be on it, then you don't necessarily need it. The one on top of each class is our recommended pick.



Dewbauchee Vagner ($1,535,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Basically, this is the only car you need for races in this class whether it be stunt or city. It has excellent traction and it tackles corners very well. It has very good top speed as well and is very easy to drive. Recommended with off-road tires.

Principe Deveste Eight ($1,795,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
This car is faster than the Vagner on straights, loves the curbs and bumps, and stunt race tubes. The only downside of this vehicle would be the brakes -- you may want to brake sooner when approaching a corner; otherwise, you will overshoot it.

Pfister 811 ($1,135,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Probably the best choice on tracks that barely have slow corners because this does not take them very well. Take note that this car has a bug in the suspension making it go faster than any other car in the game especially when you are playing the game with a high framerate.

Truffade Nero Custom and non-Custom ($1,440,000 at Benny's Original Motor Works, +$605,000 for the Custom conversion)
We recommend using this vehicle in race lobbies with contact, slipstream and catch up set to on. Thanks to it being a very heavy car, it's a benefit from players that push you off the track. Can also be good in tubes as well.

HONORABLE MENTIONS

• Annis S80RR ($2,575,000 at Legendary Motorsport) - Handles like the pre-nerfed Annis RE-7B* but has inferior top speed, a bit inferior cornering speed, and it does not gain much boost on curbs.

*For those who don't know, the RE7B used to be like 100% glued to the ground unlike the Vagner which is just about a half of the percentage. The car was versatile back in the day because you can either make it super fast on straights albeit sacrificing handling by adding a custom spoiler whilst keeping the wheels stock, or super fast around the track by installing any other wheel other than stock -- even faster than the Vagner or any other car in the game.




Ocelot Pariah ($1,420,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Athough this car is very expensive and a tricky one to control, its ridicule acceleration and top speed make this the only car you'll need in this class for races, maybe. Its top speed is ridiculously fast that even from the name itself is like the car is from another class.

Itali GTO ($1,965,000 at Legendary Motorsport
This used to be in the bonus list, but with the release of the Diamond Casino & Resort update, the car feels more stable than before albeit a bit bouncy. Choose this if you want something faster albeit challenging car to control.

Pfister Comet SR ($1,145,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Still usable on tracks with fewer straights and more corners. However, it handles likes the original Comet in which it oversteers quite easily. Like the Pariah, this car does not like the curbs.

Annis Elegy RH8 (Free at Legendary Motorsport)
If you could not afford to buy the Pariah or the Comet SR yet, then this vehicle is a must get. This vehicle can still be competitive with the Comet SR on city circuits with a lot of curbs and bumps.

Vapid Flash GT ($1,675,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Can still beat the Pariah on tracks with 90% dirt thanks to its superb grip on dirt roads. The downside to this vehicle is that it has a tendency to roll easily and that it doesn't like bumpy straights but that is nothing compared to the next car below.



Nagasaki Shotaro ($2,225,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Accelerates as fast as the Hakuchou drag and cuts through corners like a razor blade. However, the trade-off here is the ridiculous price tag and slower top speed. No need to wheelie, just lean forward.
You'll be needing to play any Deadline adversary mission first to be able to purchase this vehicle.

Pegassi Bati 801/Bati 801 RR ($15,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
This one is still one of the best bikes to use. It's really cheap and is easy to get used to. Just remember to wheelie.

Dinka Akuma ($9,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
Accelerates quicker than the Bati 801 and is easier to handle.

♥♥♥♥♥♥ Hakuchou Drag ($976,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
This one accelerates more like an electric car but its top speed, however, is slower than the Bati and its predecessor, the original Hakuchou. Same with the Shotaro, you no longer have to wheelie on this vehicle as it is much better to just lean forward.

Declasse Yosemite ($485,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
Probably the only muscle class car you'll ever need. Its got the best acceleration of among all the other cars in this class. It can also move through curbs as if they weren't even there and is a good choice for city races. The only downside of this vehicle would be the brakes. They are not as weak as the Deveste Eight though but you may want to be careful enough as they may lock up. Recommended with off-road tires.

Vapid Pißwasser Dominator ($315,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Very slippery one to drive but is still usable in tracks with more straights than corners due to its high top speed.

Vapid Dominator GTX ($725,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
You actually don't need to buy this one. But if you want to, then this is very useful on corner-heavy tracks. Don't use this car on tracks with a lot of straights and/or bumps though or you might not be able to catch up with your opponents.

BONUS: Imponte Duke O'Death ($665,000 at Warstock Cache & Carry)
Useful in races where the race lobby has catch-up and slipstream on thanks to it being heavy enough for you not to get pushed over by other drivers.



Nagasaki BF400 ($95,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
Not in the off-road class but It's basically the only vehicle you need in typical off-roads class races. Since in general, motorcycles are usually faster than cars.

Canis Kamacho ($345,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
Has good top speed, no issues with this vehicle though rather than it being hard to maneuver in stunt race loops. Very usable on tracks that require crossing rivers where the BF400 can't.

Vapid Desert Raid / Vapid Trophy Truck ($695,000 and $550,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos respectively)
Choose either one as you'll be getting the same performance out of these vehicles. Can sometimes out rival the Kamacho and is easier to handle in stunt race loops but its top speed however is not on par with the Kamacho. You may use this as well if the track requires you to cross rivers.



Grotti Cheetah Classic ($865,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Good for beginners. This car is slower on the straights but has better stability on corners. Use this if you want to sacrifice speed and 0 to 60 MPH time for increased consistency.

Turismo Classic ($705,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Good for experienced drivers. Is faster on straights but is slow on corners. Be precarious when driving this on curbs though. Use this if you do not mind decreasing consistency.

HONORABLE MENTIONS:

• Dewbauchee Rapid GT Classic ($885,000 at Legendary Motorsport)

Grotti Brioso R/A ($155,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
This car is the only one you need in Compacts class races. It is also a hard one to control as it does not like the bumps and curbs.

TIP: Remember to wiggle like a snake. :P



Übermacht Zion Cabrio or non-Cabrio ($65,000 and $60,000 respectively at Legendary Motorsport, both are free on the streets)
The only car you need for this class. Its got the best traction and is really an easy one to drive.

Lampadati Felon (non-GT) ($90,000 at Southern San Andreas Super Autos)
Can still be in the pace of the Zion but the car is harder to handle. You'd be better off using the Zion than this.

BONUS: Dewbauchee Exemplar ($205,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Perfect when you don't have any Coupés class car to race with or when the host had set custom cars to "off". Not only that but also the car has the best top speed in its class making it the best choice on tracks that don't require too much turning.



Benefactor Schafter V12 ($116,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Good for experienced drivers. It's in Sports class but is useable in this class. The car is hard to drive as it is slippery.

Benefactor Schafter V12 Armored ($325,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
Good for beginners. The car is not slippery but the trade-off is the top speed.



Pegassi Toros ($498,000 at Legendary Motorsport)
The only car you need in SUV races. The car has a bouncy suspension like the Itali GTO making it hard to drive. The Vapid Contender could have been here though.

* - First time using Photoshop. My apologies if some of the photos don't look good to your eyes. You guys are free to judge! -Azure

UPDATE 25/7/19: Stay tuned as well -- I'll be conducting tests on the new vehicles.

The cars in the game have various performance upgrade options. What is shown below are upgrades that you might need for your car for you to gain competitiveness in races.

When it comes to making your vehicle to reach its peak performance, you need to max out all the engine, transmission, turbo and brakes upgrades as soon as possible. Having a car that is maxed out is not only fun to drive but it will also help the driver to be more competitive in racing against other racers. Start investing on performance upgrades first the next time you get a car -- if you're going to use that car solely for racing of course.

If you're still new to the scene of GTA Online racing, you might get surprised by what you are about to see below. They are included there because they've been proven even by other racers in the game to have an impact on the vehicle's performance.


Installing any spoiler to your car even though it deletes it or just changes its color (both depending on the car) helps in increasing the downforce of the vehicle.

On the Pegassi Toros on the other hand, the bumper adds more traction to the car like what spoilers do. The spoiler upgrade for the Toros however will not have a significant impact on the performance of the car.

In summary, as long as you see a blue box in the traction bar of your vehicle's stats while customizing your car, get that upgrade.


Works with a number of vehicles in the game only. Example cars are the above listed in the "Which vehicles to use in races?" section of Chapter 1 as long as they have a "Recommended with off-road tires" line in the car's description. Having any set of off-road tires help you absorb bumps especially steep ones effectively when the track is around the city. Not only that but also your car may also feel less bumpy.

If you look closely at the Itali GTO's description, the reason why stock or high-end tires are our recommendations listed there is that the car feels even less stable with off-road tires on.

60+ FPS

To gain speed advantage among other players especially on straights with a lot of curbs and bumps, a decent computer that can render the game at more than 60+ FPS on average will make your car go faster.


No, it is not that your game running at a smooth sailing 120+ FPS will make your car go faster but the fluctuations do. So yeah, if your game's framerate fluctuates a lot, then it is a big advantage. Consider yourself lucky if your computer does it a lot.

Was there a time you joined a race lobby and saw like 2 or more players that are at least level 300 and up? And while during the race, when you check the leaderboards, the gap in seconds in between them are very close within each other? And when they finished the race, they all get really fast and similar lap times in the results screen? Then you've just met 2 of The Stig's cousins in GTA Online -- just kidding! They are very confident drivers and perform even the craziest stunts just to overtake their opponents. They also shave off a ton of time from their lap times by doing them -- and are not hackers. They know how to use proper racing lines, they curb boost and double clutch a lot.

According to Wikipedia, a racing line is the most optimal line of a track. For you to master a track, you must know when to brake before the turns and when to step on the throttle when you exit the corner. Racing lines play a big role in the scene of racing. If you don't know when to tackle corners and when to use full throttle, then you are not maximizing the capabilities of your vehicle. They are also widely used not just in the world of GTA Online racing, but also by real-life race drivers to get optimum lap times.

The diagrams shown below are examples of early apex racing lines.

How do you do it?



STEP 1:

When approaching a corner, position your car to the left side of the road if the corner turns to the right or to the right side of the road if the corner turns to the left and know when to brake for you not to overshoot the track or drive through a wall or barrier. If the corner isn't a tight one, then you don't have to brake.

STEP 2:

Depress the throttle, brake, and steer near the apex of the corner whilst not hitting the pole or barrier if there exists any.

STEP 3:

Exit the apex by stepping down the throttle. Countersteer when needed.

STEP 4:

If it is an S-corner, repeat STEP 1.

TIP: It is best to go slow on the first lap of every race if you happen to not know the track yet for you to familiarize with the track then gradually pick up the pace on the succeeding laps. Remember not to push yourself to the max or you'll may end up choking.


Remember to respawn if you've messed up badly (i.e. car totaled, stuck, missed checkpoint) by pressing your F button (by default) or your Triangle/Y button if you use a PS3/4 or Xbox 360/One controller respectively.


This includes ramming people off the track. Hitting poles and pylons would cause harm to other racers as well.


You'll probably soon realize that there's someone at your back. Try your best to block its path. Don't do it repetitively though.


In other words, tilt your car while on air by pressing your numpads 8 or 5 keys (by default) or your left analog stick. To initiate a horizontal tilt on the other hand, hold your handbrake button or R1/Right Bumper button then press your turn left or right keys.


As mentioned above, drifting will affect your speed as well as your time spent around the track.


Your handbrake can be useful on tight u-turns too! Remember to use it only when necessary. Maybe in tight hairpin turns.

These techniques may require skill but not much effort is needed to at least perform one of them. Unless if you are completely new to the game, it may take time to get used to them.

Failing to do any of the techniques here will not, in most cases, harm your momentum around the track. You even won't lose that much time as well.

Please do take note that the time code I used in measuring the times in the comparison videos is SMPTE Drop (29.97, Video).


You basically just press the throttle once the countdown timer says "GO". If done correctly, you will be granted a brief speed boost. It's very easy to perform and it requires little to no skill at all to perform this trick.

If you want a guaranteed turbo start, then just rapid tap your throttle button.



Curb boosting basically involves driving through curbs and apex curbs, potholes, and bumps on the road repeatedly to gain speed. This has been a technique used by experienced drivers way back in GTA IV. No video needed.

The thing behind this is that when your move to a bump or crest, the suspension of your vehicle will compress and the engine will give itself a small amount of RPM boost resulting in your vehicle to gain some boost.

Important notes:

• Don't ever sacrifice racing lines for curb boosting. Try balancing both.
  
• Having frequent FPS drops is an advantage. As we have said few sections ago.

This trick effectively works on vehicles that are rear-wheel drive (e.g. Vagner) and front-wheel drive (e.g. Bolokan Prairie). This may work on vehicles with four-wheel drive or all-wheel drive drivetrains as well (e.g. Elegy, X80 Proto) but the results are not significant.

To perform this trick, before the car reaches 3rd gear, quickly depress the throttle, then quickly press the handbrake and brake/reverse button (optional) simultaneously and then quickly press the throttle again. This trick, however, is going to be hard to perform. I would highly suggest that you practice with a Banshee as it is the easiest car to mid-drive speed boost with.

If done successfully, the car's engine would redline whilst sending more power to the drive train to the wheels causing to spin at a much faster rate, all of which occur for a brief moment.

Take note of the car's RPM in the video.


In order to short shift, you need a controller with analog triggers (i.e. PS4, Xbox 360/One controllers). Just press your throttle button at around 5 -20% before your vehicle is about to change gears. Results are significant when done on bumps and when climbing slopes.


This is done by tapping your brake button once while on a slope or pothole where the wheels of the vehicle are still touching the ground and that the suspensions are expanded. For beginners, just hold the brake button for a bit longer for an effective brake boost until the wheels start spinning faster.



If you have watched at least half of the total episodes of the first stage/season of Initial D, then you are probably already aware of this trick. The technique what the protagonist did in the show, which is to tackle corners faster and efficiently by letting the wheels on the other side of the vehicle (depending on where the corner turns) on the edge of the curb to hang on there until the corner ends, can also be used in the game.

In GTA Online, the same principle can be done here but with some minor modifications. You're still going to get the same result though.

The difference of the technique from the anime to the game is that instead of letting the left or right side of your vehicle's wheels to hang onto the edge of the curb, you instead enter all two or four wheels of your vehicle inside the apex curb.

Works best on motorcycles but it may work on cars as well but it is difficult to perform. But like we have said a while ago, failing to do this trick will not much harm your momentum and your time spent around the track.

In this section, you'll probably need to exert more effort than that of the tricks above. Perform one tiny mistake and your car would exit track forcing you to respawn and fall behind the pack.


This is done to minimize airtime. While inside a stunt race tube, you must do a loop before the end of the tube jump. And whilst approaching the tube exit, the car's momentum should be moving downwards instead of the usual upwards.


Comparison:

Sometimes, you may need to brake before exiting the tube, or you may overshoot the road.


You really have to be a pro in order to do it plus this is only doable in certain Stunt race tracks.

First, you need to find a banked turn, check whether if you can reach its checkpoint(s) before you initiate the wall ride (you got to act fast though), then slightly move the car outside the gutter before the banked turn starts and let the wheels on the side to float midair for a brief moment until your car's wheels catch the wall, then catch the checkpoint by steering near it if needed, and exit the wall by landing the car on the road before the banked turn finishes.

As a learner, you may want to brake a bit when entering and exiting the wall and once you're used to it then you probably don't have to. Go slow too while wall riding but not too much to the point the wheels no longer clip the wall.

Once you've memorized all the wall riding spots, then there's no need for you to use your split-second thinking skills.


Comparison:


For ramps, there are actually two ways to do it. One that involves just completely skipping the ramp (Ramp Skip) and one that you let your car spin while on the air for a brief moment (Ramp Spin Jump).

Doing the jump skip is very self-explanatory, just avoid the ramp. Although some tracks like Stunt - City Air like in the video shown below, ramp skipping on that section of the track is very hard to perform because of the billboard that is situated in the middle of the jump.

To do the spin jump on the other hand, position the car between the middle of the edge of the ramp and the road, and then just let the car spin until it lands. Remember to tilt your vehicle until all four wheels are the first to land the ground.


Comparison:

For loops, there are also two ways oh how to do it. One that involves just crossing the other side of the road after the loop ends, making it the easiest stunt race technique in this section of this chapter to perform (Loop Skip) and probably the hardest one of them all which involves your car to do a barrel roll (Loop Spin Jump).

To do the loop skip, again, just cross the other side of the road, avoiding the loop. Make sure that your vehicle is fast enough though. Otherwise, you will fall. You can use this technique in tracks like Stunt - Pier Race as long as the gap between the two roads are close enough.


Comparison:

To perform a loop spin jump, your car must be positioned at the edge of the loop, pointing at the road after the end of the loop whilst doing a spin jump until it lands on the other side of the road.


Comparison:

Thank you for reaching this part of the guide. We will continue to improve this guide by adding more tips and chapters, and even revise some of the text here in the future. Also, as you may have noticed, the first chapter of the guide is missing some classes. Don't worry, we will be adding the missing ones ASAP.

We highly advise that you share your thoughts about this guide as they might be helpful in improving the contents.

Happy racing, and don't use hacks to win.

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