Whether you peel the potatoes or not is up to you.

Peeled or not, the cut is absolutely key when making fries. If you have a kitchen mandoline, this is the time to break it out and use it. If not, cut each potato in half the long way, lay the cut side flat on the cutting surface and cut into 1/2-inch to 1/4-inch slices. Stack these slices and cut into the same width sticks. Repeat with remaining potatoes.

Put the cut potatoes in a large bowl, cover with cool water, and soak for at least 20 minutes. This step gets rid of excess starch, resulting in fluffier and crisper fries.

Drain the potatoes and pat them dry with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Arrange them in a single layer to air-dry for a bit. The drier the better.

Bring at least 2 inches of oil in a large heavy pot to about 325F. Fry potatoes, in batches if necessary, at this fairly low temperature until the fries are cooked through but still as pale as they were when you put them in the oil, about 5 minutes.

Lift the fries out of the oil using a slotted spoon or frying basket. Drain them on a cooling rack (set over a baking sheet or pan to catch the drips) or on layers of paper towels. Let sit until completely cool—at least 30 minutes and up to several hours.

Note: You can prepare the fries up through this step up to a day ahead of serving them.

Bring the oil up to the 350F-375F range. Use a thermometer or test the oil by dropping a fry in it – the oil should sizzle actively, but not violently, around the fry immediately. If it sputters and sizzles aggressively, bring the temperature down until you get an active yet steady sizzle when you add a fry to the oil.

Add the fries, working in batches if necessary to keep them in a single layer in the oil, and cook until golden or starting to turn golden brown, depending on how well done you like your fries, about 5 minutes.

Lift the fries out of the oil with a slotted spoon or frying basket. Drain them, again, on a cooling rack set over a pan or on layers of paper towels.

Most people will want to sprinkle their fries with fine sea salt while they are still laid out in a single layer draining.

To serve: pile them onto a platter or into a bowl.

If you've made a particularly large batch for a crowd, consider serving them on a layer of brown butcher paper in the middle of the table—it's heaps of fun.

No matter how you serve them, be sure to serve the fries while they're still warm.


Bon Appétit