Borderless Gaming

Borderless Gaming

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BLUE/CLICK: SCREEN OF DEATH-S O D
By nerk hayze
This guide is to assist in avoiding blue/click or any screen of death:
as borderless gaming definitely aids in presenting a better gaming experience it is also

PC-LITE

OR

PC-Friendly


as an app;
using resolutions other than NATIVE to get a better graphics quality on a lower ended GPU,
could have negative effects especially on mainboard ! ! !
With this guide I shall try to describe as much as I could on what I learnt regarding common problems,
of course there are many problems - with application of the correct solution may be solved in an instant. You need PATIENCE to troubleshoot THESE problems: that's 1/2 of what you need. Maybe you're wondering if I encounter BSOD/COD presently, I do YES , & often make reference what I have mentioned below (it remains relevant I have found).
If anything this guide is offered in gratitude for an excellent app WHICH HAS BEEN UPDATED 2024-BORDERLESS GAMING.
   
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Let's start here RIGHT CLICK on THIS PC/MY PC click on PROPERTIES
SELECT DEVICE MANAGER AT THIS POINT AFTER FOLLOWING 1ST STEP
CHOOSE HERE : HID checking power management of each item UNCHECK allow PC to turn off
AT UNIVERSAL SERIAL BUS controllers : select each item as with HID and UNCHECK (if checked) allow PC turn off
UNCONTROLLABLE SCROLLING-this has caused me havoc . See where SET OFF. That's it
above point necessary by following reasons: WINDOWS UPDATE (creators & so on)/ unplugging & plugging USB points EXTERNAL HDD
Windows resets your PC when you
-plug & unplugging your USB jack's, automatically,
these must be unchecked in DEVICE MANAGER.

If there is a WINDOWS UPDATE it resets these USB jack's; what is that you say,
-keyboards,
-mouse,
-speakers,
-camera/microphone,
-and for many of us EXTERNAL HDD where we store our game libraries. (i experienced SOD when playing a game loaded on my external HDD that was set to ALLOW PC TO TURN THIS USB OFF)

*UNCHECK OPTION FOR ALLOW WINDOWS TO TURN DEVICE OFF.

go to power options on your PC, click on CHANGE PLAN SETTINGS => change advanced power plan


WINDOWS 11 guide how to find these power settings changing your power settings

in your search bar insert the word power & you see the option for ''EDIT POWER SETTINGS'', this is it
2 important settings here USB selective suspend DISABLED & SCREEN to NEVER turn off-as in screenshot
HARDWARE (faulty connections with fans on built PC's, internal heat extractors and other cooling fans) disabling them.
Another problem I had was with hardware.
Fans (internal-as mentioned above).
Power Supplies (full of dust-give it a thorough blow, THIS HAPPENS HERE, IT IS A CAUSE).
RAM STICKS (not properly inserted-loosely-yes open your pc & re-insert correctly, if you notice you are repeatedly opening your PC & re-inserting ram after a crash to ENABLE a re-start (it won't boot) you may have found a faulty ram stick test them 1 by 1 if necessary Faulty ram chips happen-beware!: BLUE SCREEN OF DEATH [www.google.co.zw]. )
Ram frequencies that differ may be rejected by mainboard causing BSOD. [www.google.co.zw]
Mainboard or Motherboard. The NEW mainboard was ''rejected'' by WINDOWS installation[www.google.co.uk]
Speakers (which I shall mention in next section)
UNINSTALL/N O T disable-REALTEK[www.realtek.com.tw]
from your installed programs : CONTROL PANEL.

right click on blank area on your desktop to reveal NVIDIA Control Panel option click on that
the option on any item that is functioning as audio device that says ALLOW EXCLUSIVE CONTROL as in picture:UNCHECK all
sound so many times causes problems and NVIDIA HDMI installation is that hindrance: UNINSTALL that and 3D driver/controller
TRY TO BE NEAT
IF YOU HAVE AN AMD GPU, PM, me I go through steps with you. Most use NVIDIA.


i would game so hard my table would shake: therefore i would get SOD by gaming HARD :)

YES, I know.

i now have my desktop THE BOX, on a separate table next to my screen,
IT WOULD SHAKE,
then the cables going from screen to PC would shake so much and disrupt, guess what,
I GOT ANOTHER SOD.

neaten things up gamer friend tidy is good.

contact or PM me if you have questions or for further in-depth solutions, I truly have sympathy if you have this problem.

NOTICE: A lot if not all above settings do reset after a WINDOWS or NVIDIA update & need to be repeated, THEY ARE ALSO PC-Friendly & won't harm your PC.
ERROR HARD DRIVE SCAN NOW OR ON REBOOT/RESTART OF COMPUTER
FURTHER ON ABOVE HDD section
To be correctly understood.
The problem is cause by 1 of 2 HDD connected to your PC.
I understood this problem encountering the problem HDD, had a very quick/brisk SCAN & REPAIR operation. As opposed to the HDD THAT-one was bothering. Something like this;

-HDD A (was being troubled by HDD B).

-HDD A is already in a good/better state than HDD B

-HDD B is a fragile/tender HDD that i rarely use (sometimes gives a regular clicking sound during operation)

-when I performed disk check SCAN & REPAIR on HDD A i wasted nearly 18 hours leaving my computer to SCAN & REPAIR not able to do anything on my computer as I would lose data (3TB).

-when my computer gave me SCAN ERROR FOR DISK, rather than checking HDD A, again, I checked HDD B, the duration of the SCAN & REPAIR was M U C H shorter & I soon carried on my work again

:)
INTERNET CONNECTION




I have 2 active connections @ any given time on my laptop; 1 the laptop onboard receiver, 2 a high-speed 600MBPS usb dongle. Now my internet fails to disconnect. When I open task-manager it shows 2 wifi connections, wifi1 & wifi2.

A Few things that are on my mind about internet;
-how is your laptop internet connection is it disconnecting regularly, have you made certain it's SOLELY happening by it-self, this problem, if so further suggestions follow;
-apart from searching for latest drivers for your onboard internet, I recently found a solution that seems SOLID, i installed on my laptops' own port a high-speed USB Dongle internet receiver, this has RARELY DISCONNECTED.

On the subject of DESKTOP connections at the moment THIS WOULD BE ADVICE with a fair amount of trying & testing of my own.
-I generally suggest ethernet connections for DESKTOP & even LAPTOP if possible, these are usually much more 'dedicated'. & usually present fewer problems.
-On the subject of a USB dongle for internet for a desktop, i recommend that you FIND-WHAT-WORKS for you. Let me explain, I have a build *desktop, that works well with a dongle (nothing special, this specific dongle, though for explanations sake THAT dongle, WORKS VERY WELL, others don't, ON-THAT-COMPUTER. SO. It's like don't use that dongle on another PC, or so on, & in other DESKTOPS I was simply forced to use ETHERNET.
The dongle on THAT desktop is a very usual normal dongle, though there it works works WELL.
-Increase your ports, I have a THUNDERBOLT on another THUNDERBOLT, with an external WIFI dongle..

Further, there are normal dongles, then there are ''higher-speed'' dongles these may be seen & those may be found. For example the high speed dongle on my laptop has capacity up to speeds of 600MBPS, that's a high speed dongle.
WINDOWS 11 gamers oriented aid (disable VBS)
TURNING OFF MEMORY INTEGRITY

1. In start/search area type Core Isolation...it should show with a windows logo, click on that, further it shall show a switch for MEMORY INTEGRITY, & your PC should have this ON.
2. Turn it OFF. (your computer should redirect here for a restart)

TURNING OFF VIRTUAL MACHINE PLATFORM (VMP)

1. In start/search area type 'Windows Features'...select Turn Windows features on or off,
2. Check the box off for Virtual Machine Platform. It should be blank.
3. Notice this isn't TPM. Trusted Platform Module.
CPU +90'C, then after *almost exactly 20 minutes gameplay total PC-SHUTDOWN
-My problem here was the INTEL GPU, was functioning alongside installed GPU.
-Disable the INTEL gpu, from your BIOS, ''USUALLY'', so only the CPU is functioning, ✔
-i re-installed FAN, then a new fan,
-my power supply wasn't working properly, NEW PSU,
-the problem was the CPU heated up because gaming was stressing the INTEL GPU, a lot,
-i went into bios, disabled the INTEL GPU, since then, gaming normally, no SHUTDOWN :)
-notice; this section refers to desktop not laptop
GOT A QUESTION
...anything... are you installing a new PC?

NEW ram?

Let me know, I make an effort to help.
DISCLAIMER
i built my i9 by myself;
-i have questions,
-i try,
-it's functional,
-doesn't crash *mostly,
-click the link & see the specs on my profile,


my profile, scroll down for the specs
6 Comments
nerk hayze  [author] 22 Jan, 2023 @ 11:42am 
i wish you an excellent gaming experience..(i suppose i'm happy meeting a man who isn't on STARLINK):true::Deacon_Binoculars::f_USA:
Acolyte of Fire 22 Jan, 2023 @ 11:17am 
Forgot to link the map: https://satellitemap.space/
Acolyte of Fire 22 Jan, 2023 @ 11:16am 
Ha you want to talk about bad internet :0, I've moved into my camper right now, and as far as I can tell, for the majority of the world Starlink is working awesomely. If you look at the positions of the satilites on this map, my issue as a resident of Alaska will be blatantly obvious. At least the 1 bar of LTE i'm getting here in the middle of nowhere doesn't cut out. The speeds on it aren't even super bad when I'm tethered, but they don't offer unlimited tether data. At least it has better gaming latency than Starlink though.
nerk hayze  [author] 21 Jan, 2023 @ 11:45pm 
desktops are on ethernet...it's like muzzling their power using wifi...BUT that depends...a desktop configuration i have that works VERY well...on a specific usb-dongle i have (THE dongle mentioned isn't even HIGH POWERED, & it's THAT dongle not another, actually). go figure as we say...

i have noticed vast improvement on laptop with a high powered dongle (600mbps) additional USB on my laptop ...sometimes showing itself on task manager as WIFI1 & WIFI2...where these are both active at the same time (albeit temporarily). one thing to notice internet is now un-interrupted as opposed to BLACKOUTS...
Acolyte of Fire 21 Jan, 2023 @ 10:13pm 
Great tips! I would like to add that you should always play on ethernet if you care about lag. Gaming on wifi will always add some latency, this even applies to things like wireless/bluetooth controllers although I'd not worry about your input devices that way unless you are very competitive. (wireless mice are getting so good you could make an argument that they are better than wired, because you can probably be more precise without the extra weight of the wire)

When playing on wifi your signal is always potentially subject to radio interference. If you have to play on wifi I recommend going into your router's configuration and changing to a different channel than the default, the default band tends to be crowded.
Magic Tofu Cat 10 Nov, 2021 @ 12:07am 
you prob just need too say trying too run 8k on a 1080p monitor prob does not help