Diluted HCI also called Muriatic acid can be ontained from hardware stores, in the pool section. NaOH also called lye Ethyl Ether aka Diethyl Ether Et-O-Et can be obtained from engine starting fluid, usually from a large supermarket. Look for one that says "high ethyl ether content", such as Prestone Ephedrine. The cottons in todays vicks nasle inhalers dont contain efed or pfed (ephedrin or psuedoephrin) but there are still lots of easy ways to get good ephed or pfed, pure ephredrin can be extracted out of it's plant matter, from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores. Or you can get pfed from decongestive pills like sudafed. Most people prefer to work with pfed pills rather than ephed from the plant. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed as any contaminants will ♥♥♥♥ up the motar ratio leaving you with over reduced ♥♥♥♥ or under reduced ♥♥♥♥. Or contaminants will jell during baseifying and gunk up your product which will then be very hard to clean. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure hci, or as close to pure as you can get. Also check the lable on your pills and see what inactive ingredients they contain. Inactive ingredients are thing like binders and flavors. These you dont want and will remove when cleaning your pills; but certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. You dont want pills with a red coating, you dont want pills with alot of celulose in them and you dont want pills with much wax. You also dont want pills that contain povidone. As a rule; if you have two pills that contain the same amount of pfed hci then take the smaller sized pill because it obviously has less binders and inactive ingredients. Time released pills are usually harder to work with because they contain more binders and tend to get up during the a/b stages. Also only buy pills that have pfed hci as the only active ingredient. You first have to make ephedrine (which is sometimes sold as meth by itself) if you are selling it. I would just make f̶̝͂d̷̬͆s̶͔̓f̸̯̀k̵̮̑j̸̺̒ş̸͆d̵͇͒f̵̣̕j̷̰̔k̵͈̿ŝ̷͎ḽ̵̈́d̴̳͛j̷̪̍f̴̞͘k̴̮̉l̶̘̒š̴̹d̶̠̀j̶̨̆f̸̢͌l̴̯̕k̶͙͌ really cheap, so you have no reason to use the nasty stuff from the tap. Do things right. Ethyl Ether: WARNING Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heaver than air. Do not use ethyl ether near flame or non-sparkless motors. It is also an anesthetic and can cause respiratory collapse if you inhale too much. List of equipment: A glass eyedropper. Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz.) one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it (you might want to label it as ether). One should be clear ( and it cant be the marked one). A pyrex disj (the meatload one is good) A glass quart jar. Sharp scissors. Clean rubber gloves. Coffee filters. A measuring cup. Measuring spoons. Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer. Then, draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and a cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put the cap on it, and put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let is stand. Ethyl ether is very pungent. Even a small evaporated amount is quite noticeable. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of the lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and agitate. Do this carefully, as the mixture will become hot, and give off hydrogen gas/steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames. Repeat this step until the mixture remains cloudy. This step neutralizes the HCI in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (i-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take only 3 repetitions or so. Fill the bottle from the last step the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap the bottle, and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether(is is soluble in ether). Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible. This is why this bottle should be clear. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill is half-way and about 5 drops of munatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCI again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to the next step! If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it. Evaporate the solution in the pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this on the stove or nuke it in the microwave (be careful of splashing), but i have found that if you leave it on top of a hot-water heater (like the one that supplies hot water to your house) for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCI. If you microwave it. I suggest no more than 5-10s at one time. if it starts "popping", that meas you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright 100W lamp instead. Microwaving can result in uneven heating, anyway.