Diluted HCl (Muriatic acid) - obtained from hardware stores

NaOH - also called lye

Ethyl Ether(Di ethyl Ether) - obtained from engine starting fluid. Look for "high ethyl ether content" such as Prestone

Ephedrine - Pure ephedrine can be extracted from a plant that can be bought at most garden stores or decongestive pills. Most prefer to use pills over plants. The important thing is that you must have pure pfed/ephed, any contaminants will leave you with over-reduced ♥♥♥♥ or under-reduced results, or will jell during basifying. So you want to find a pill that is nearly pure pfed hcl, or as close to pure as you can get. Check for inactive ingredients like binders and flavors. Remove when cleaning your pills. Certain inactive ingredients are harder to remove then others. Don't use pills with red coating, cellulose, wax, or povidone.

Distilled water - do not use tap

Glass eyedropper

Three small glass bottles with lids (approx. 3 oz.) one should be marked at 1.5oz, use tape on the outside to mark it.

Pyrex dish (meatloaf one preferred)

Glass quart jar

Sharp scissors

Clean rubber gloves

Coffee filters

Measuring cup/spoons

WARNING: Ethyl Ether is very flammable and is heavier than air. Don't use ethyl ether near flame. It's an anesthetic and can cause respiratory failure if inhaled too much

1. Take the unmarked small bottle and spray starter fluid in it until it looks half-full. Then fill the rest of the way with water, cap the bottle and shake for 5 minutes. Let it sit for a minute or two, and tap the side to try and separate the clear upper layer.

2. Draw off the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, and throw away the lower (water) and cloudy layer. Place the ether in the marked container. Repeat this until you have about 1.5 oz. of ether. Put it in the freezer if you can. Rinse the other bottle and let it sit.

3. Ethyl ether is very pungent, even a small evaporated amount is noticeable.

4. Ephedrine or P-Ephedrine - Search on Neonjoint forum

5. Pour 1/8 teaspoon of lye crystals into the bottle of ephedrine and shake. Do this carefully, the mixture will become hot and give off hydrogen gas and/or steam. H2 gas is explosive and lighter than air, avoid any flames as usual. Repeat until the mixture remains cloudy. This neutralizes the HCl in the salt, leaving the insoluble free base (l-desoxyephedrine) again. Why do we do this? So that we can get rid of any water-soluble impurities. For 3 oz. bottles, this should take roughly 3 times.

6. Fill the bottle from step 5 up the rest of the way with ethyl ether. Cap bottle and agitate for about 8 minutes. It is very important to expose every molecule of the free-base to the ether for as long as possible. This will cause the free base to dissolve into the ether.

7. Let the mixture settle. There will be a middle layer that is very thick. Tap the side of the bottle to get this layer as thin as possible.

8. Remove the top (ether) layer with the eyedropper, being careful not to get any of the middle layer in it. Place the removed ether layer into a third bottle.

9. Add to the third bottle enough water to fill it half-way and about 5 drops of muriatic acid. Cap it. Shake the bottle for 2 minutes. When it settles, remove the top layer and throw it away. The free base has now been bonded to the HCl again, forming a water soluble salt. This time, we're getting rid of ether-soluble impurities. Make sure to get rid of all the ether before going to step 11!

10. If there is anything left from step 3, repeat the procedure with it.

11. Evaporate solution in the Pyrex dish on low heat. You can do this with a stove or microwave (be careful of splashing). Also can leave on top of a hot-water heater for about 2-3 days, the remaining crystals will be ephedrine HCl. Do not microwave more than 5-10s at once. If it starts "popping", that means you have too little liquid left to microwave. You can put it under a bright (100W) lamp instead.

First Batch: 120mg ephedrine HCl Estimated: 300mg (100% theoretical, disregarding HCl)

Items:
Lots of matchbooks (with striking pad)

Coffee filters/filter paper

Something that measures ♥♥ and grams

A flask (a small pot with a lid can be used)

Iodine

Hydroiodic Acid (I will tell you how to make this)

Red Phosphorus (I will tell you how to make this)

Lye

*Optional (toluene and HCI gas)


The striking pad on books of matches is about 50% red phosphorus. The determined experimenter could obtain a pile of red phosphorus by scraping off the striking pads of matchbooks with a sharp knife. A typical composition of the striking pad is about 50% red phosphorus, along with about 30% antimony sulfide, and lesser amounts of glue, iron oxide, MnO2, and glass powder. I don't think these contaminants will seriously interfere with the reaction. It will be a slow process to get large amounts of red phosphorus by scraping the striking pads off matchbooks.

This is made by mixing iodine and red phosphorus. When making hydroiodic acid from iodine and red phosphorus, the acid is prepared first, and allowed to come to complete reaction for 20 minutes before adding the ephedrine to it. The way around the roadblock here is to just boil off some more of the water from the ephedrine extract, and make the acid mixture in fresh pure water. Since the production of HI from iodine and red phosphorus gives off a good deal of heat, it is wise to chill the mixture in ice, and slowly add the iodine crystals to the red phosphorus-water mixture.

To create the reaction, get a 1000 ♥♥ round bottom flask filled with 150 grams of ephedrine. Add 40 grams of red phosphorus and 340 ♥♥ of 47% hydroiodic acid. This mixture also can be prepared by adding 150 grams of iodine crystals to 150 grams of red phosphorus in 300 ♥♥ of water. This should produce a strong hydroiodic acid solution. After mixing, attach a condenser and boil for 1 day. This time is needed for best yields and high octane numbers. While it's cooking, the mixture will be red and messy looking from the red phosphorus floating inside. When that's done, cool the flask, and dilute it with an equal volume of water. Next, the red phosphorus is filtered out. A series of doubled up coffee filters will work but real filters are better. The filtered solution should be golden. A red color there's still red phosphorus. If so, filter again. The filtered-out phosphorus can be saved for use in the next batch. If it's still red, there may be iodine floating around the solution. It can be removed by adding a few dashes of sodium bisulfate or sodium thiosulfate. The next step is to neutralize the acid. A strong lye solution is mixed up and added to the batch while shaking until the batch is strongly basic. This brings the meth out as liquid free base floating on top of the water. The strongly basic solution is shaken vigorously to ensure that all the meth has been converted to the free base. You now can sell or use the free base for injection use or with free base meth now obtained, the next step you can do is to form the crystalline hydrochloride salt of meth. To do this, a few hundred mls of toluene is added to the batch, and the meth free base extracted out as usual. If the chemist's cooking has been careful, the color of the toluene extract will be clear to pale yellow. If this is the case, the product is sufficiently pure to make nice white crystals just by bubbling dry HCl gas through the toluene extract. If the toluene is dark, a distillation is called for to get pure meth free base. The yield of pure methamphetamine hydrochloride should be from 100-110 grams.