Empire: Total War features multiplayer battles ranging up from one versus one battles to massive four versus four battles along with naval, siege, and historical scenario battles. The battles can be early period with a selection of units from early game or late period with late game units. The game's twelve playable primary factions along with four American Indian tribes. There are a total of 19 land battle maps, four of which can be optimized to support up to eight players. Finland is can only be played in a four versus four setting. Two maps are are made for two versus two. These maps, Provence and Bavaria, are arguably the best. There are also five scenario battles that can be played and siege battles with wooden forts, western artillery forts, eastern artillery forts, star forts, and the Ottoman fort. There are also four virtually identical maps for multiplayer naval battles. This guide will deal with regluar land battles but there will be some concepts that can be applied to various types of battles. Please keep in mind though that while some maps are four versus four, you are not actually required to fill both teams in order to begin the match, therefore it is possible to run a one versus one on Finland.

This guide only deals with land based multiplayer battles played on the "late" time setting. This guide will not address Native American factions, units that fire while mounted, and fixed artillery units. Additionally, this guide will add (where warranted) the bonuses to stats given by bayonets. Unit sizes are presented from small to ultra from left to right. If factions' specific sections are divided into parts, part one will contain infantry, part two will contain cavalry, and part three will contain artillery. If it is not specified what DLC pack a unit comes with, the reader is to assume that it comes with the vanilla game. Many units will not be classified as they are in game. For example, Guard Cavalry is not an ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ class of cavalry, and certain units listed as light infantry are actually listed as skirmishers (or in the case of Armenians, militia.) This is due to the fact that we have deemed these units either functionally identical to another class, or different enough that they deserve a class of their own.

Terminology

Fixed Artillery

This refers to any unit that is incapable of moving at all.

Light Infantry

While this can refer specifically to the unit named "Light Infantry", it more commonly refers to any unit with a range stat of 90 or 125. Keep in mind that this does not include Camel Gunners.

Missile Cavalry

While this can refer specifically to a class of cavalry, it is more commonly used to refer to any cavalry that can fire without dismounting.

Many, if not almost all games often have a set of rules established by the host. The purpose of rules is, usually, and hopefully to right the wrongs of Creative Assembly. Meaning that rules will often be dedicated to barring, or reducing the use of overpowered units such as light infantry, missile cavalry, and fixed artillery. It is considered polite to ask the host what his rules are upon entering his lobby. This guide will be focussing on the rules used by Brad and myself.

Our Rules

Our rules are simple, players may not use fixed artillery, though they must use at least two units of non-fixed artillery, players may not use any missile cavalry, though players must, however, use at least two units of melee cavalry. Finally, players may not use more than four units of light infantry.

Their Purpose

I'm sure that many readers will be astonished by the above wall of text and even more astonished by the fact that I called it simple. Don't rout though, all will be made clear. In general our rules are designed to facilitate gameplay that is somewhat realistic, diverse in terms of the way armies are built, and skillful due to the curbing of absurdly powerful units.

No Fixed Artillery

This rule is almost universal. It exists simply because fixed artillery units very actively encourage camping (camping and defense are not the same). Whereas mobile artillery has both offensive, and defensive capabilities, fixed artillery has only defensive capabilities. It is therefore safe to assume that anyone using it will camp, and therefore damage the battle experience for other players.

No Cavalry That May Fire While Mounted

This rule exists for balancing purposes. The fact of the matter is that cavalry which can fire while mounted is laughably overpowered. Consider that Carabineers, which cost a meager 520 credits (the currency used to buy units), can easily defeat Garde a Cheval, the best heavy cavalry in the whole game which costs a whopping 1080 credits. This was simply unacceptable. Another problem with allowing cavalry units that fire while mounted is that the enemies' cavalry would consist entirely of units that fire while mounted. In summation, cavalry that fires while mounted harmed army diversity, and destroyed game balance. Since barring missile cavalry, we have seen significant improvements in the variety of cavalry units that are used, and the way they are employed in battles.

Maximum Seven Infantry Units With 70 Range

This rule stemmed from the failures of past rules to fully stamp out spam. Previously, all players were required to have a minimum of two artillery and two cavalry with the idea being that they would then be forced to bring more balanced and diverse armies. This however resulted in players simply buying the cheapest imaginable artillery and cavalry so that they could go on and spam infantry as usual. To this end we finally came up with this rule which in a sense beats around the bush less, is simpler to read, and is more effective at curbing spam.

Maximum Four Units With 90 or 125 Range

Rules restricting units with 90 or 125 range are almost universal. The most common version of this rule prescribes a limit of five. These rules exist simply because massive armies made up entirely of 90 and 125 range units are almost universally considered overpowered, in poor taste, and damaging to the overall battle experience.

Conclusion

The purpose of our rules are to promote battles which showcase a variety of different units, are challenging to all parties involved, and are more realistic.

The basic unit categories are infantry, artillery, and cavalry but there are further sub categories within each unit type.

Infantry

Infantry is divided up into Militia, Melee Infantry, Light Infantry, Grenadiers, Line Infantry, and Elite Infantry.

Artillery

Artillery is divided up into Foot Artillery, Howitzers, and Horse artillery.

Cavalry

Cavalry is divided up into Light cavalry, Medium Cavalry, Lancers, Dragoons, Heavy cavalry, Elephants, and Guard Cavalry.

Note: Unit sizes/number of men in a unit can be changed in graphics menu

These units are generic units that are available to almost all factions.

Militia


Class: Militia
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 25
Reload: 10
Melee: 7
Charge: 11
Defense: 9
Morale: 4
Cost: 460
Limit: None

Not much to say, they're not very good, for anything. Available to all European factions except Russia. The United States have a unique variant that will be discussed later.

Rangers


Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 30
Attack: 8
Charge: 10
Defense: 7
Morale: 6
Cost: 530
Limit: None

In essence, they're Light Infantry that sacrifice shooting skill and the ability to place stakes for improved melee. They're available to the United States, and Great Britain. France has a uniquely named version called "Coureurs de Bois" (runners of the woods) and Spain has uniquely skinned version called Frontiersmen. Normally not recommended, this unit can under certain circumstances be a boon.

Light Infantry


Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 30
Attack: 5
Charge: 4
Defense: 6
Morale: 7
Cost: 550
Limit: None

They're not as good as riflemen due to their inferior range, accuracy, and melee skill. That said, they have greater firepower than most rifle armed units and can win if they are able to get the first volley. This unit is available to all European factions except Spain. France has a uniquely named version named "Chasseurs a Pied" and Austria has unique versions with a unique skins named "Jaegers."

Riflemen


Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 70
Reload: 35
Attack: 7
Charge: 8
Defense: 7
Morale: 7
Cost: 660
Limit: None

These are going to be the bread and butter of most armies' light infantry forces. They're relatively cheap and quite deadly. They're available to all European factions except Great Britain, Austria, Spain and the United States. Prussia and France get uniquely skinned versions. Prussia gets Prussian Jaegers, and France gets Tirailleurs.

Grenadiers


Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 35
Attack: 13
Charge: 17
Defense: 16
Morale: 8
Cost: 680
Limit: None

They're low cost, half size, Superior Line Infantry. Their killing power comes from their close range capabilities where they can kill a hundred men in a matter of seconds. Use them carefully as their reduced unit size will make them vulnerable. This unit is available to all European nations though many factions have differently skinned versions and unique version. The Grenadiers come in bearskin caps and mitres. Spain has uniquely skinned grenadiers. Prussia and Russia have unique grenadier units that will be discussed later. This unit is recommended due to its low price and high killing power.

Line Infantry


Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defense: 13
Morale: 7
Cost: 740
Limit: None

Line Infantry will most likely be the bread and butter of your army's infantry. Their main job is simply to shoot stuff. Learn to love them, you'll be using them a lot. This unit is available to all European nations except Austria, Great Britain, France, Prussia, and Russia whose differing versions will be discussed later.

Superior Line Infantry


Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 45
Attack: 10
Charge: 13
Defense: 15
Morale: 9
Cost: 1060
Limit: None

Available to Sweden and Prussia only, this can be described as diet-guards. They inspire nearby units (which is unusual for line infantry), and fight hard. They are strongly recommended due to their solid quality and reasonable price.

Guards


Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 55
Attack: 12
Charge: 16
Defense: 18
Morale: 11
Cost: 1220
Limit: None

For many factions, this is the best infantry they can recruit. Like Superior Line Infantry, it fights hard, and inspires nearby allies. This unit is available to all factions except Prussia and the United Provinces. Sweden and Spain have unique versions with unique skins and names. Spain can recruit Guardias de Infanteria, and Sweden can recruit Lifeguards of Foot and France has a uniquely named version called "Maison du Roi."

General's Bodyguard

Class: General
Men:8/16/24/32
Attack: 9
Charge: 14
Defense: 10
Morale: 10
Cost: 360
Limit: None

This unit is basically designed to make your army seem more realistic, and to buff the units around it. In certain situations it can be used to attack weakened light infantry units, or artillery. This is a unit that you do not want to lose as your units will suffer a massive morale penalty if your general is killed. The Ottomans have a unique variant that will be discussed later and the Maratha variant will not be discussed due to the fact that it fires while mounted.

Hussars

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 9
Charge: 13
Defense: 6
Morale: 7
Cost: 590
Limit: None

For many factions, this is the fastest moving cavalry you can recruit. It is, without question, not terribly effective for fighting other cavalry units. In fact, the only units it has a chance of beating are lancers and dragoons. They are however cheap, fast, nice looking and can pose a serious threat to isolated units of light infantry and artillery. Overall, players are advised to use this unit at their own discretion. This unit is available to Prussia, Poland-Lithuania, Russia, and the United Provinces.

Regiment of Horse

Class: Medium Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 11
Charge: 12
Defense: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 620
Limit: None

This unit is, on paper at least, meant to be the line infantry of your cavalry forces. Unfortunately, it's not terribly fast, or hard hitting and therefore shouldn't be used unless necessary. This unit is available to all European nations except France, and Austria. Sweden has a unique version that will be discussed later.

Uhlans

Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 7
Charge: 25
Defense: 7
Morale: 6
Cost: 700
Limit: None

This unit, under the right circumstances is capable of beating units significantly better than itself. This advantage, though, is heavily dependent upon the situation and usage of this unit. Overall this unit takes a degree of skill to use and newer players are advised against usint it. This unit is available to Prussia and Poland. Austria and France have unique variants that will be discussed later.

Dragoons

Class: Dragoons
Men: 20/40/60/80
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 7
Charge: 10
Defense: 6
Morale: 6
Cost: 720
Limit: None

A unit that was once completely unused has become the shining star of support troops. Though expensive, Dragoons are a worthwhile investment due to the fact that they are faster than line infantry, and more versatile than regular cavalry. If needed they can attack unprotected light infantry, unprotected artillery, or dismount and provide supporting fire for other units. This unit is strongly recommended. This unit is available to all European factions except Spain, France, the United States, and Austria. Sweden has a unique version that will be discussed later.

Cuirassiers

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 17
Charge: 15
Defense: 12
Morale: 10
Cost: 830
Limit: None

Cuirassiers are an excellent heavy cavalry unit that will often make up the mainstay of many nations' cavalry forces. They are slow, but they also hit incredibly hard. It is also worth noting that they have a slight bulletproof effect. This unit is recommended. Cuirassiers are available to Prussia, France, Spain, and Russia. Austria has a unique version which will be discussed later.

Sipahis

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 14
Charge: 23
Defense: 11
Morale: 10
Cost: 840
Limit: None

This unit acts as most Eastern factions' response to the Cuirassier. This unit has a far better charge but inferior attack and defense stats meaning that it will kill weaker units incredibly fast, but lose to Cuirassiers rather badly. Like all heavy cavalry units, it's rather slow. Overall due to its price and stats, this unit should be avoided, though it is usable. This unit is available to the Ottoman Empire and Maratha Confederacy.

Household Cavalry

Class: Guard Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 19
Charge: 17
Defense: 15
Morale: 12
Cost: 950
Limit: None

This unit is, for many factions, the best cavalry money can buy. They are slow, but incredibly hard hitting, and provide a morale buff to nearby allies. This unit is recommended if you have the money to spare. They are available to all European nations except Prussia and many nations have unique versions. Spain, the United Provinces, France, Sweden, and Great Britain all have uniquely skinned and named versions. Spain has Guardias de Corps, the United Provinces have Horse Guards, Sweden has Lifeguards of Horse, France has Garde du Corps, and Great Britain has Life Guards.

Puckle Guns

Class: Foot Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: 150
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 6
Charge: 6
Defense: 4
Morale: 3
Cost: 510
Limit: None

While it is fun to use due to its insane rate of fire, and due to the novelty of having a rapid fire gun present on a 1700's battlefield, the Puckle Gun simply isn't very useful. It doesn't get very many kills, and it's not very accurate. It does however, do abnormally well against cavalry at close range and can easily wipe out most of an enemy cavalry unit if correctly employed. Overall, players are advised to stay away from this weapon. This unit is available to all European nations.

18-lber Foot Artillery

Class: Foot Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: Shot Dependent
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 30
Attack: 6
Charge: 6
Defense: 4
Morale: 3
Cost: 630
Limit: None

This unit is virtually never used and it's easy to see why. First of all, only the Ottoman Empire and the Maratha Confederacy can use it, and second of all, given its inconsequential price reduction, it's less practical to employ than 24-lber Foot Artillery. Finally, it's slow. This unit is not at all recommended. This unit is available to the Ottoman Empire, and the Maratha Confederacy.

24-lber Foot Artillery

Class: Foot Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: Shot Dependent
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 30
Attack: 6
Charge: 6
Defense: 4
Morale: 3
Cost: 640
Limit: None

This unit, is in essence the Line Infantry of your artillery forces. It's cheap, and for most factions, the most effective option. This unit is highly recommended. It is available to all nations except France.

6-lber Horse Artillery

Class: Horse Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: Shot Dependent
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 30
Attack: 6
Charge: 8
Defense: 4
Morale: 3
Cost: 660
Limit: None

Cheap and incredibly effective. This unit is highly effective due to its ability to get around quickly, while maintaining fairly average stats. Additionally, this unit has rather nice uniforms. It is available to all European nations.

24-lber Howitzer Foot Artillery

Class: Howitzers
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: 350
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 6
Charge: 6
Defense: 4
Morale: 3
Cost: 770

This unit excells at knocking out tightly packed infantry groups. It is best employed when there is a lot of cover available. Due to its tremendous killing power it is highly recommended that you use this unit, especially on hilly terrain. This unit is available to all European nations and the Ottomans.

As you can assume, every faction has its own strengths and weaknesses. DLC packs can be used to enhance a factions strengths, and sometimes create new strengths altogether. Some basic things to note are that as a rule, Eastern factions usually have superior light cavalry but inferior artillery and line infantry. Most eastern line infantry type units cannot rank fire, and many cannot make use of bayonets. This point will be further demonstrated in the coming sections.

General Specialties

Austria's main strength is its cavalry, though it boasts some very interesting and arguably very good light infantry. Almost all its cavalry receive significant bonuses to all their stats. However, Austria has average artillery, though it has infantry that is capable and arguably better than average.

Notable Units

Grenzers

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 40
Attack: 7
Charge: 8
Defense: 7
Morale: 7
Cost: 560
Limit: None

This unit makes up the mainstay of Austria's light infantry and somewhat compensates for Austria's lack of riflemen. While they do lack range in contrast to riflemen, they have vastly superior firepower, offer the best bang for buck of any 90 range unit and are in fact the best 90 range unit (excluding Freikorp and Legion of The US). Not only do their double barrelled muskets allow them to have twice the firepower, but they also are able to reload faster. As a rule, if you play as Austria, you'll be forced to use these. But, fear not, they're fairly good though they take a bit more skill to use than riflemen.

Hungarian Grenadiers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 40
Attack: 12
Charge: 16
Defense: 17
Morale: 9
Cost: 710
Limit: 4

This unit is a tremendous asset to Austria and is easily the second best unit of grenadiers in the game. They provide excellent firepower at a good price, and at close range, their killing power is immense. I strongly encourage players who like grenadiers to use them. This unit comes from the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Line Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 50/100/150/200
Range: 70
Accuracy: 35
Reload: 20
Attack: 8
Charge: 11
Defense: 11
Morale: 6
Cost: 790
Limit: None

Though many players are put off by the decrease in stats from which this unit suffers, our tests have shown that Austrian Line Infantry is actually better in a shootout than standard Line Infantry and about equal to British Line Infantry. With that said, this unit is rather weak in melee and it's morale can get you into some trouble at times. You're probably going to have to use this unit as Austria though, so learn to love it.

Windbusche Jaegers

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Accuracy: 15/30/45/60
Reload: 35
Attack: 4
Charge: 4
Defense: 10
Morale: 7
Cost: 1000
Limit: 2

This is unquestionably the second, if not the best light infantry unit in the entire game. Don't be deceived by the stats. In the pack files, Windbusche Jaegers actually reload a whopping five and a half times faster than standard riflemen, and a little under twice as fast as Ferguson Riflemen. This unit will win any shootout (guaranteed) provided that it fires first, and manges to engage at its maximum range. Due to its smaller size though, it is incredibly vulnerable to cavalry attacks, and if ambushed by enemy light infantry, may be defeated. Overall though, this unit is a must have for any user of Austria as it greatly helps compensate for the shortcomings of Grenzers.

Hungarian Hussars

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 11
Charge: 15
Defense: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 690
Limit: None

This unit is strongly recommended for anyone using Austria. It is very fast, and very deadly. Those are two qualities that many European cavalry units lack. These, combined with its low price make it a very useful unit indeed.

Uhlans

Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 9
Charge: 29
Defense: 9
Morale: 8
Cost: 850
Limit: None

Austrian Uhlans stand head and shoulders above any other nation's. While they are excellent, their steep price tag, and inferiority in prolonged combat makes them an inferior choice to Hungarian Hussars. Nonetheless, the are excellent and are a viable option if the player has the credits to spare.

Cuirassiers

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 19
Charge: 17
Defense: 14
Morale: 10
Cost: 910
Limit: None

Austrian Cuirassiers are the pinnacle of European mass recruitable heavy cavalry. While slightly cheaper than Household Cavalry, they can easily go toe to toe with their more noble counterparts. Like all heavy cavalry units, they suffer from a lack of speed. However, using them is strongly advised.

General Specialties

Great Britain is an excellent multiplayer faction due to the fact that it is incredibly versatile and has unique units in almost every category. Even without DLC it has a fairly good selection of affordable but high quality units.

Notable Units

Company of Select Marksmen/Fraser's Rangers

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 60
Reload: 25
Melee: 7
Charge: 9
Defense: 5
Morale: 8
Cost: 580
Limit: 1

Simply put, this unit isn't very useful. It's a souped up unit of Rangers. The trouble is that it's not much better than standard Light Infantry and will lose pretty badly to most other proper Light Infantry units. It is, however, rather nice looking. So, if you do use it, hide it in a treeline and wait, it could actually beat rifles with fair ease if they're caught off-guard and aren't able to fire first. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Hessian Grenadiers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 35
Attack: 10
Charge: 14
Defense: 14
Morale: 8
Cost: 660
Limit: 1

Like all Hessian troops, this unit costs less, and is of somewhat lesser quality than its regular counterpart. So why buy them? The answer is simple. They have the same shooting stats, morale, and their grenades are just as effective. Simply put, the decrease in killing power is very negligible. The unit is effective, nice looking, and if you like grenadiers, this unit has my seal of approval. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Roger's Rangers

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 65
Reload: 35
Attack: 9
Charge: 11
Defense: 9
Morale: 10
Cost: 660
Limit: 4

Their stats speak for themselves. Despite lacking range, these rangers make the excellent ambush troops, and if correctly employed can defeat standard riflemen in the open field. Grenzers are marginally better and cheaper. That said, they only cost 10 credits less than Green Jackets and therefore Green Jackets are a bit more preferable. This unit comes with the "Special Forces Units & Bonus Content" DLC pack.

Green Jackets

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 70
Reload: 35
Attack: 7
Charge: 11
Defense: 12
Morale: 7
Cost: 670
Limit: None

In terms of its firing capabilities, it's your average unit of riflemen. Accurate, and slow firing. The advantage of the Green Jackets comes from their bayonets. Believe it or not, the bayonet doesn't actually boost the unit's defense stat. It actually boosts the unit's attack and charge by three. The high defense stat of 12 means that the Green Jackets have far greater durability in a close quarter scuffle. Like them or not, you're probably going to have to use them.

Royal Welch Fusiliers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 40
Attack: 12
Charge: 16
Defense: 17
Morale: 9
Cost: 710
Limit: 1

I strongly recommend this unit if you use grenadiers. For a marginal fee, you can have a unit that is superior to standard grenadiers, and very impressive looking as well. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Line Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 30
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defense: 15
Morale: 8
Cost: 810
Limit: None

Line Infantry will probably be the bread and butter of your army. You can take comfort in knowing that British Line Infantry lives up to its reputation and is a lot better than standard Line Infantry.

33rd Foot

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 10
Charge: 12
Defense: 14
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Limit: 1

This unit is good, though it has some drawbacks. One must note that it has less defense and reload skill than British Line Infantry. However, it does look nice, so if you have the spare 40 credits to spare, by all means I'd advise buying them. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

King's Royal Regiment of Foot

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 11
Charge: 12
Defense: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Limit: 1

This unit is, for all intents and purposes, functionally identical to the 33rd Foot. Unlike the 33rd Foot, it's not very nice looking though. Like the 33rd Foot, it's a decent buy if you have some extra credits. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Ferguson Riflemen

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 70
Reload: 35
Attack: 4
Charge: 6
Defence: 10
Morale: 7
Cost: 980
Limit: 2

To the untrained eye, this unit may seem absurd. The stats are inferior to those of Green Jackets, and the unit is far more expensive. This unit costs a hell of a lot more due to the fact that hidden in the pack files is the projectile table which details reload speed modifiers. The Ferguson Riflemen, have their own little value in this table. According to the table, they ought to reload about twice as fast as standard Line Infantry and a little more than three times faster than regular riflemen.

The Black Watch

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 40
Attack: 12
Charge: 20
Defence: 17
Morale: 11
Cost: 1180
Limit: 4

If you do intend to buy elites when playing as Great Britain, The Black Watch is strongly recommended. In terms of its shooting capabilities it's virtually identical to Guards, or even Coldstream Guards due to the fact that platoon fire makes reload speed irrelevant.

Coldstream Guards

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 65
Attack: 10
Charge: 14
Defense: 18
Morale: 11
Cost: 1250
Limit: 4

I'd strongly advise against using this unit. It's inferior to all other British elites in terms of melee, and as stated before, reload skill is an irrelevant stat for units that platoon fire. They're not even very nice looking.

Heavy Cavalry

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 16
Charge: 14
Defense: 10
Morale: 9
Cost: 730
Limit: None

This unit is actually very good as it's fairly hard hitting and fairly cheap. It can drive back Hussars, Dragoons, Regiment of Horse, and even some higher tier light cavalry units.

Brunswicker Dragoons

Class: Dragoons
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 8
Charge: 11
Defense: 9
Morale: 8
Cost: 890
Limit: 1

They're very expensive, and statistically not much better than Hussars in a melee, so why would anyone use them? Speaking from experience, their use comes from three factors. First, they look nice. Second, Great Britain lacks and fast moving cavalry, this unit is faster than Heavy Cavalry, but hits reasonably hard. Finally, they're versatile. With our rule set, dragoons become an incredibly valuable asset and are undoubtedly the best support troops. They can provide supporting fire when needed, and act as cavalry when needed. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Horse Guards

Class: Guard Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 21
Charge: 19
Defense: 13
Morale: 13
Cost: 980
Limit: 4

This unit is the ultimate in British cavalry. It looks wonderful, inspires nearby allies, and has spectacular killing power. If you have the money, this unit is strongly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

General Specialties

France boasts exceptionally strong elite units and artillery though its cavalry is sorely lacking and its light infantry is very average.

Notable Units

Line Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 11
Charge: 13
Defense: 13
Morale: 7
Cost: 750
Limit: None

As always, line infantry is generally the mainstay of your army's infantry. French Line Infantry is unique in that it receives a bonus to charge and attack making it comparable in melee to Russian Line Infantry but capable of mathing other nations' line infantry in a shootout. The price increase is modest and therefore this unit is strongly recommended.

Royal Deux-Ponts Regiment

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 30
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defense: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Limit: 1

This unit is unquestionably one of the nicest looking units in the entire game and its capabilities in battle are very nice as well. While this unit does sacrifice the melee buff of French Line Infantry, it gains +5 to its reload skill, and +2 to its morale making it far more useful in a shootout. This unit is very strongly recommended when playing as France. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Bulkeley's Regiment

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 50
Attack: 14
Charge: 14
Defense: 19
Morale: 11
Cost: 1060
Limit: 4

This unit is the second best rank firing unit in the entire game and in terms of stats can easily compete with Guards in a shootout. Furthermore, it can in theory, defeat Guards in a melee. This unit is highly recommended for anyone who has the money to spare. This unit comes with the "Special Forces Units & Bonus Content" DLC pack.

Royal Ecossais

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 45
Attack: 12
Charge: 20
Defense: 17
Morale: 11
Cost: 1200
Limit: 4

For all intents and purposes this unit is functionally identical to Guards in a shootout, though it is slightly cheaper. As a result this unit preferable to regular Guards.

Infanterie Vieux

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 50
Attack: 10
Charge: 18
Defense: 17
Morale: 11
Cost: 1200
Limit: None

Again, for all intents and purposes this unit is identical to Guards in a shootout though it possesses inferior melee capabilities to Guards and Royal Ecossais. As a result, it is a better idea to buy Royal Ecossais instead of this unit.

Swiss Guards

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 60
Attack: 16
Charge: 19
Defense: 20
Morale: 12
Cost: 1330
Limit: 4

This is the ultimate, and best elite infantry unit in the game without exception. It looks good, and performs flawlessly. That said, its use is discouraged by its hefty price tag. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of the West" DLC pack.

Cheveaux-Legers

Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 7
Charge: 25
Defense: 7
Morale: 6
Cost: 690
Limit: None

This unit is a very average unit of lancers which received a unique name. It costs slightly less than other lancers due to the fact that it is lacking a stamina buff. If you play as France though, you may have to use this unit due to the lack of fast moving cavalry units available to France.

24-lber Guard Artillery

Class: Foot Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: Shot Dependent
Accuracy: 65
Reload: 50
Attack: 10
Charge: 10
Defense: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 840
Limit: None

This unit is the best foot artillery in the game and is almost a must-have for any French army.

18-lber Horse Guard Artillery

Class: Horse Artillery
Men: 6/12/18/24
Range: Shot Dependent
Accuracy: 65
Range: 50
Attack: 10
Charge: 12
Defense: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 880
Limit: None

This is the best horse artillery, and best artillery in the whole game. If you have the money to spare, you should choose it over the foot artillery since as a rule, horse artillery is superior to foot artillery. It is also important to note that this unit doesn't suffer the same accuracy debuff as other horse artillery units.

General Specialties

The Maratha's strength lies with it's cavalry and their melee warriors. However the rest of their roster is lacking. They have no light infantry, proper line infantry, or fast moving artillery. Many of their units are resistant to heat fatigue and their artillery can only be captured and reused by players other players using the Ottomans or Marathas.

Notable Units

Hindu Warriors


Class: Melee Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Attack: 15
Charge: 9
Defense: 10
Morale: 7
Cost: 520
Limit: None

This unit is pretty much trash. It has higher melee attack than Sikh Warriors but this is unnecessary and can be described as overkill. This unit doesn't cost very much. It is a fine example of "you get what you pay for."

Hindu Musketeers

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 25
Reload: 20
Attack: 9
Charge: 8
Defense: 6
Morale: 5
Cost: 540
Limit: None

Hindus are generally regarded as a peace loving people. Such thinking would explain a lot about the quality of the unit. It's virtually worthless though it is in fact better than militia since it can form square and has slightly better shooting stats. Use of this unit is discouraged.

Sikh Warriors

Class: Melee Infantry
Men: 160
Attack: 14
Charge: 12
Defense: 11
Morale: 9
Cost: 650
Limit: None

These troops are probably the toughest melee troops in the game. You will have to use a combination of artillery fire, musketeer fire, and cavalry tactics to get these troops into melee where they will excel. A combination of fighting and running will tire out this unit quickly.

Bargir Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defense: 15
Morale: 7
Cost: 730
Limit: None

This unit falls in between Sikhs and Hindus in terms of quality. While it is usable, players are advised to use Sikhs instead.

Sikh Musketeers

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 30
Attack: 10
Charge: 13
Defense: 16
Morale: 8
Cost: 780
Limit: None

These men are the closest thing you have to european style line infantry, they cannot fire by rank so you will have to use artillery, melee troops, and cavarly to compensate for this setback.

Bargir Lancers

Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 7
Charge: 25
Defense: 7
Morale: 6
Cost: 720
Limit: None

Performance wise, these lancers are identical to standard Uhlans. They do however have a slight buff to a hidden armor stat (meaning that they can soak up bullets a tiny bit better) and as a result cost a little extra.

Barawadi

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 10
Charge: 14
Defense: 12
Morale: 8
Cost: 730
Limit: 4

Effectively, Barawadi are simply Poligar that have -1 to all their stats.They are still very quick, and easily able to handle most run of the mill European cavalry units. Overall they are a good choice when money is tight. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Poligar

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 11
Charge: 15
Defense: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Limit: 4

This is the best light cavalry that the Maratha's can recruit. It should help with the Maratha's heavy cavalry stamina issues. It is strongly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

War Elephants

Class: Elephants
Men: 10/20/30/40
Attack: 25
Charge: 26
Defense: 7
Morale: 10
Cost: 880
Limit: None

These beasts will crush just about everything in their way. They can break square formations through brute force alone, and create a demoralizing effect on all enemy units around them. This unit is extremely vulnerable to artillery, gets tired fast and morale rapidly starts to go down once you start to lose men.

Rajput Zamindar

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 21
Charge: 15
Defense: 16
Morale: 12
Cost: 1000
Limit: 2

This is the best cavalry that the Maratha's can recruit. It is easily superior to Household Cavalry and can easily compete with some of the unique guard cavalry variants. Be wary when using this unit as it is expensive and you can only have 2 and just like any other heavy cavalry it can get tired rather easily. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

General Specialties

The Dutch are a a good faction for players who do not have DLC. They specialize in medium cost, high quality line infantry. Otherwise they have a fairly routine unit roster.

Notable Units

Scots

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Melee: 11
Charge: 17
Defence: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 870
Unit limit: 4

This is the cheapest platoon firing line Infantry in the game. They can't win against elite infantry but it can fairly easily beat even Prussian Line Infantry which is great because they only cost slightly more. Unfortunately, you can have 4 of them. Nonetheless, this is a highly recommended unit.

Swiss Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 40
Melee: 9
Charge: 12
Defence: 15
Morale: 9
Cost: 890
Unit Limit: 4

This unit is pretty much normal line infantry with far better stats. It is a great match for scots because you cn have 4 Scots and 4 units of Swiss Infantry thus giving you a very strong infantry contingent. This unit is highly recommended as well.

Holland Guard

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 60
Melee: 10
Charge: 14
Morale: 11
Cost: 1240
Unit Limit: None

Versus regular Guards, this unit has a significant advantage in a shootout, though it suffers in melee. This and the Blue Guard are not very different and as a result you can cut costs by using this unit instead of the Blue Guard. Overall though, the United Provinces should make better use of their Scots and Swiss Infantry and as a result this unit shouldn't be considered a priority.

Blue Guard

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Reload: 60
Melee: 14
Charge: 18
Defence: 20
Morale: 12
Cost: 1320
Unit Limit: 4

This unit is similar to Holland Guard and can be considered a further upgraded unit of guards. It's extremely expensive and extremely powerful. Much like Holland Guard though, players should prioritize using Swiss Infantry and Scots over this unit. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Garde Du Corps

Class: Guard Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 21
Charge: 19
Defence: 13
Morale: 13
Cost: 980
Unit Limit: 4

This is the best cavalry unit that the Dutch can recruit. It is only slightly more expensive then the Horse Guards so most times you can afford this unit. It is highly recommended due to the fact that the dutch don't have very many other cavalry units worth using. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

General Specialties

The Ottoman Empire is a bit outdated however it can still compete with europeans to an extent unlike the Marathas. With good cavalry and good but expensive line infantry but no true elite infantry, the Ottomans can still put up quite a fight. They boast the largest unit roster in the game. Many of their units are resistant to heat fatigue which can help on Syrian Ridge and their artillery can only be captured and reused by other Ottoman or Maratha users.

Notable Units

Bosnian Panduks

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 35
Reload: 15
Ammunition: 20
Attack: 11
Charge: 11
Defence: 4
Morale: 6
Cost: 500
Unit Limit: 4

This unit isn't very good for anything. It can't fill its role as light infantry effectively due to its poor accuracy and reload skills and its very good melee statistics are made worthless by the fact that light infantry type units should never be employed in melee. It's more or less just rabble with guns, and therefore not recommended. If you must use this unit, hide it somewhere and ambush an enemy unit with it. If you fire and then follow through with a charge, you might be able to kill a few enemies. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Haydut Irregulars

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 20
Melee: 9
Charge:9
Defence: 4
Morale: 6
Cost: 510
Unit Limit: 4

This unit is superior to Bosnian Panduks in that they perform better as light infantry due to their superior accuracy and reload skills. However, this unit should be traded in favor of Nizam-I Cedit Light Infantry due to the fact that Nizam-I Cedit Light Infantry can place stakes, have a superior reload skill, and have better morale. This unit overall shouldn't be used in any function except perhaps for ambushes. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Nizam-I Cedit Light Infantry

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 30
Attack: 5
Charge: 4
Defence: 9
Morale: 7
Cost: 550
Unit Limit: None

This is the Ottoman equivilant of European Light Infantry. Compared to its European counterpart, this unit has vastly inferior accuracy but slightly increased melee skill. Melee skill, unfortunately, is a skill that light infantry units should never have to find themselves using, and therefore this unit is not at all recommended. If you must use it, use it for ambushes.

Isarelys

Class: Milita
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 30
Reload: 20
Melee:7
Charge: 11
Defence: 12
Morale: 5
Cost: 550
Unit Limit: None

While it has bayonets and can form square, this unit cannot rank fire and is therefore far less effective than proper line infantry ought to be; but if stretched can beat Minutemen. It is best used to screen and support the Janissary Hand Mortar Boluk. This unit should never make up the mainstay of your infantry and should act simply as support. Overall this unit should be avoided if possible.

Armenian Archers

Class: Milita
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 15
Melee: 7
Charge: 7
Defence: 5
Morale: 6
Cost: 580
Unit Limit: 4

This unit is simply too outdated to lacks the firepower to compete with many other firelock armed units. At best, this unit can be used to fire over hilly terrain or provide support for a unit by firing over the aforementioned unit. Armenian Archers can also place stakes. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Beylik Janissary Grenadiers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 35
Melee: 11
Charge: 12
Defence: 11
Morale: 8
Cost: 640
Unit Limit: None

While these grenadiers have comparable stats to their European counterparts, they have no firing drill, or bayonets. Players, are therefore, discouraged from using them.

Palestinian Auxiliaries

Class: Milita
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 35
Reload: 15
Attack: 6
Charge: 5
Defense: 9
Morale: 8
Cost: 650
Limit: 4

This is tied with Minutemen for the title of best militia in the game. It has vastly superior shooting stats to European Militia units and has far more morale. It does however have slightly inferior melee to European Militia. This unit should be used in the same way as Isarelys meaning it should be used to provide supporting fire for other infantry units, and screen for certain support units. Palestinian Auxiliaries work particularly well with the Janissary Hand Mortar Boluk. For all intents and purposes this unit should replace Isarelys. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Janissary Hand Mortar Boluk

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 35
Attack: 8
Charge: 6
Defense: 13
Morale: 8
Cost: 670
Limit: None

This unit is an excellent support unit, and in combination with Palestinian Auxiliaries can do serious damage to enemy forces. It is however hampered by unimpressive melee, low ammo, and grenades that have reduced effectiveness. This unit should never be used on its own.

Nizam-I Cedit Rifles


Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 70
Reload: 35
Attack: 10
Charge: 10
Defense: 9
Morale: 9
Cost: 720
Limit: None

This unit, like all Nizam-I Cedit units, is above average. This unit will make up the mainstay of your light infantry forces. It can be trusted to hold a line due to good morale, and overall good statistics.

Beylik Janissary Musketeers

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 40
Melee: 9
Charge: 10
Defence: 11
Morale: 8
Cost: 820
Unit Limit: None

Despite being considered elite, this unit has no firing drill, and cannot employ bayonets. Quality-wise, if used correctly this unit can stand a chance against line infantry. Players aren't encouraged to use this unit.

Cairo Janissaries

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 45
Melee: 11
Charge: 12
Morale: 8
Cost: 840
Unit Limit: 4

These are effectively upgraded Beylik Janissary Musketeers. Quality wise this unit can take on line infantry. Players aren't encouraged to use this unit. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Nizam-I Cedit Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 35
Attack: 11
Charge: 12
Defense: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 870
Limit: None

This is the Ottoman's only proper line infantry unit. It has above average stats for line infantry, and though it is expensive, it probably should and probably will make up the bulk of your infantry forces.

General's Bodyguard

Class: General
Men: 8/16/24/32
Attack: 9
Charge: 14
Defense: 10
Morale: 10
Cost: 360
Limit: None

This unit is basically designed to make your army seem more realistic, and to buff the units around it. In certain situations it can be used to attack weakened light infantry units, or artillery. This is a unit that you do not want to lose as your units will suffer a massive morale penalty if your general is killed. The Ottoman Empire's unique version is not affected by heat fatigue and has +1 to its defense skill, giving it greater longevity in a fight.

Mounted Nizam-I Cedit

Class: Dragoons
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 30
Attack: 6
Charge: 9
Defense: 6
Morale: 7
Cost: 680
Limit: 4

This unit is overall the best unit of dragoons in the game in terms of quality for value. Above average shooting skill combined with a below average price makes this unit excellent for doing what dragoons do best and providing support, though this unit has further reduced melee. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Wallachian Boyars

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 11
Charge: 15
Defense: 10
Morale: 9
Cost: 760
Unit Limit: 4

This is the best light cavalry the Ottomans can recruit. It is very quick, and equally deadly. This unit not only costs less, but is a straight upgrade to Mamelukes and therefore should completely replace them in one's armies. This unit is highly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Mamelukes

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15 / 30 / 45 / 60
Attack: 11
Charge: 15
Defence: 10
Morale: 7
Cost: 780
Unit Limit: None

They are just as fast, and far deadlier than many European light cavalry units. However, they are expensive, and made totally obsolete by Wallachian Boyars. This unit is recommended if you don't have the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Libyan Kuloglu

Class: Dragoons
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 35
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 30
Attack: 10
Charge: 11
Defence: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 860
Unit Limit: 4

While fun, this unit simply isn't very practical. Their blunderbusses have the same range as grenades, aren't as deadly as they should be, and on foot this unit is rather slow, meaning it can be hard to close distance. As cavalry, they do have decent melee, but they're expensive and as a result should be avoided. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

Circassian Armoured Cavalry

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 19
Charge: 17
Defense: 16
Morale: 12
Cost: 990
Limit: 2

This is a very good unit of heavy cavalry and can beat European Household Cavalry, but due to its high price and the lower cost of the other good Ottoman cavalry units this unit simply falls out of favor. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The East" DLC pack.

General Specialties

Poor old Poland is arguably one of, if not the least interesting faction in the game. It only gets two unique units. Both of these units combined give Poland a small specialization in shock troops.

Notable Units

Guard Grenadiers


Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 50
Attack: 14
Charge: 18
Defense: 18
Morale: 11
Cost: 790
Limit: 4

This is the finest unit of grenadiers available. Though small in number, like all grenadiers, they are excellent in melee and shootouts. Due to their low cost they are almost a must-have for any Polish army. Unusually for Grenadiers, this unit provides a morale buff to nearby units. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Winged Hussars


Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 16
Charge: 25
Defense: 17
Morale: 12
Cost: 1080
Limit: None

This unit is not as powerful as it may seem. They are, in essence heavy lancers and as a result, their impact is strongly dependent upon the terrain from which they attack. While costing more than Household Cavalry, and the same as Russian Garde a Cheval, it will lose to both of those units. For these reasons, it's really not recommended.

General Specialties

Prussia is arguably one of the best factions in multiplayer. It receives a tremendous boost to almost all of its 70 range units. With DLC packs, it receives a specialization in lighter, faster-moving cavalry units. Even without DLC it's a fairly good faction.

Notable Units

Grenadiers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 45
Melee: 13
Charge: 18
Defence: 16
Morale: 9
Cost: 720
Limit: None

The Prussian Grenadiers are different from regular grenadiers due to the fact that they receive the standard Prussian buff of +10 reload, +1 charge, and +1 morale. As a result, their high stats make them superior in quality to Superior Line Infantry though they still lack the numbers of Superior Line Infantry and are therefore not as effective. They also have a unique skin. They are highly recommended.

Line Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 35
Melee: 9
Charge: 13
Defence: 13
Morale: 8
Cost: 810
Unit Limit: None

Prussian Line infantry, like Great Britian's, are considered one of if not the best regular line infantry units in the game. Their excellent shooting stats, combined with high morale allow them to excell in firefights. This unit is very highly recommended.


Frei-Korps

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 30/60/90/120
Range: 90
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 35
Melee: 6
Charge: 5
Defence: 11
Morale: 8
Cost: 880
Limit: None

This unit can be described as a hybrid between Light Infantry and Line Infantry, and in fact can beat standard Line Infantry in a head on fight. It is a 90 range light infantry unit however unlike other light infantry units it gets a 50% increase to manpower which means it can utterly smash other 90 range light infantry units, and rather easily beat rifle armed units. They also have slightly better melee capabilities than other light infantry units. Some drawbacks are that they cannot place stakes, are vulnerable to cannister shot, and are easily beaten by some of the specialized faster-firing riflemen such as Windbusche Jaegers or Ferguson Riflemen. This unit is recommended with players who are aggressive attackers. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Life Guard

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 65
Attack: 12
Charge: 21
Defence: 18
Morale: 12
Cost: 1320
Limit: None

This unit of guards is far superior to standard Guards though it is far more expensive as well. It receives the standard Prussian buff of +10 to reload, +1 to charge, and +1 to morale. Unfortunately, there are often more cost effective options available and as a result it is not commonly used.

Bosniaks

Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 9
Charge: 27
Defence: 8
Morale: 8
Cost: 810
Unit Limit: 4

These Lancers are one of the best lancers in the game. However Prussia's other great cavalry units might be more preferable then these lancers due to the fact that like all lancers, Bosniaks won't fair too well in prolonged combat. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Death's Head Hussars

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 11
Charge: 15
Defence: 17
Morale: 11
Cost: 910
Unit Limit: 4

These Hussars are just slightly inferior to 2nd Hussars and have slightly better defence than the 2nd Hussars. However both units have the same exact price so the 2nd Hussars are a better choice. This unit is only really recommended if you want more variety in your army. This unit comes with the "Special Forces Units & Bonus Contents" DLC pack.

2nd Hussars

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 13
Charge: 17
Defence: 11
Morale: 11
Cost: 910
Unit Limit: 4

This is one of Prussia's finest units and the best light cavalry in the game. They can easily take on most other cavalry units, wear gorgeous uniforms, and are extremely quick. This unit is very highly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Garde Du Corps

Class: Guard Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 19
Charge: 17
Defence: 19
Morale: 12
Cost: 1040
Unit Limit: None

This is the most hard hitting cavalry unit Prussia has and is far better than standard Household Cavalry. However with other selections like 2nd Hussars and Cuirassiers, there are more cost effective options that will offer you greater mobility.

General Specialties
Russia is a good faction overall, it has the best Guard Cavalry unit in the game, the Garde a Cheval and along with Cossack Ataman light cavalry this faction has a good cavalry roster. Its infantry units are inferior, but cheaper, and slightly better in an offensive melee capacity.

Notable Units

Siberian Hunters


Class: Light infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 30
Melee: 8
Charge: 10
Defence: 8
Morale: 6
Cost: 530
Unit Limit: None

Not to be confused with regular rangers this unit has better stats and has a nice looking skin (it does not have the ranger skin despite what the unit card looks like). This unit should be used to ambush as it cannot take on rifles on its own. Additionally, it can work well against the Maratha Confederacy due to its superior melee skills.

Cossack Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 30
Reload: 20
Melee: 7
Charge: 8
Defence: 6
Morale: 5
Cost: 540
Unit Limit: None

These men are better then militia and can form square formation, however they do not make use of bayonets and cannot rank fire. This unit should be used in a similar capacity to Ottoman Isarelys meaning that it should provide supporting fire for infantry units, or screen for Hand Mortar companies.

Hand Mortar Company

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 40
Melee: 11
Charge: 11
Defence: 15
Morale: 9
Cost: 650
Unit Limit: None

These are very similar to the Ottoman Hand mortars and should be used the same way meaning that they should be screened by, and provide support for, some larger infantry unit. Cossack Infantry is often a good choice for such a task.

Grenadiers

Class: Grenadiers
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Melee: 15
Charge: 21
Defence: 14
Morale: 8
Cost: 670
Unit Limit: None

Russian Grenadiers have among the best melee stats of all grenadier units. What they lack in shooting ability and defense, they make up for with charge bonus and attack skill. This unit is a good choice for shoring up the weaknesses of Russian Line Infantry.

Line Infantry

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 35
Reload: 15
Melee: 11
Charge: 16
Defence: 14
Morale: 7
Cost: 720
Unit Limit: None

The Russian line infantry have the worst shooting stats of any line infantry in the game making this unit difficult to use. If one wants to win with them, they will have to try and take advantage of Russia's good cavalry. You're pretty much going to have to use this unit when playing as Russia.

Siemenovski Foot Guards

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 50
Melee: 16
Charge: 22
Defence: 18
Morale: 12
Cost: 1280
Unit Limit: 4

This unit, is nicer looking, and slightly better than Russia's normal guards as it receives the buff that Russia's Line Infantry and Grenadiers receive making it have a vastly superior charge bonus and melee attack skill to almost any other unit. This, combined with the fact that it's only a little more expensive than regular guards, makes it recommended when you plan on using elites in your army. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

Cossack Ataman Cavalry

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 10
Charge: 14
Defence: 9
Morale: 8
Cost: 730
Unit Limit: None

This is an excellent light cavalry unit and is highly recommeded when playing as Russia. It provides a morale buff to nearby units, is quick, cheap, and far more effective than Hussars.

Garde à Cheval

Class: Guard Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 21
Charge: 19
Defence: 17
Morale: 13
Cost: 1080
Unit Limit: 4

This is the best heavy cavalry unit in the game. It will win against any other cavalry and can easily fight elephants. Despite its high price tag you can still, and should, manage to fit at least one of these units into an army. This unit is very highly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

General Specialties

Spain is quite bland as factions go. They have a few above average units and some reskinned units. They lack fast moving cavalry.

Notable Units

'Corso Terrestre' Guerillas

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 35
Reload: 15
Melee: 9
Charge: 9
Defence: 4
Morale: 6
Cost: 540
Unit Limit: None

This unit isn't very good. While it is cheap, and can move while hidden, it suffers from poor shooting statistics, unimpressive morale, low range, and simply, a lack of usefulness. As a result they are not recommended. This unit comes with the "Special Forces Units & Bonus Content" DLC pack.

Cazadores

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 70
Reload: 35
Attack: 7
Charge: 12
Defense: 6
Morale: 8
Cost: 690
Limit: None

This unit is Spain's only rifle unit. It is somewhat above average due to its increased morale. Considering that it's above average, not much more expensive than regular rifles, and is Spain's only rifle unit, this unit is highly recommended.

Walloon Guard

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 60
Melee: 14
Charge: 18
Defence: 20
Morale: 12
Cost: 1320
Unit Limit: 4

This unit is nice looking, and far better than regular Guards. It is equal in terms of quality to the Dutch Blue Guard. Due to the fact that spain lacks notable units, this unit is a perfectly acceptable option when you wish to add some color and variety to your armies. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

General Specialties

Like Poland and Spain before it, Sweden has very few notable things about its army. It has a bonus to the size of its cavalry units (that doesn't reduce quality) and can recruit the highly recommended Superior Line Infantry unit. This faction does not benefit at all from DLC and therefore may be worth considering for players who don't want to purchase DLC.

Notable Units

Hakkapeliita

Class: Light Cavalry
Men: 15/30/45/60
Melee: 9
Charge: 13
Defence: 11
Morale: 7
Cost: 750
Unit Limit: None

This is Sweden's only light cavalry unit. While similar to Hussars, it is far more expensive but has vastly superior defense skill. Unlike most Swedish cavalry units, it does not benefit from the unit size increase.

Regiment of Horse

Class: Medium Cavalry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Melee: 11
Charge: 12
Defence: 8
Morale: 7
Cost: 820
Unit Limit: None

This version of Regiment of Horse has the same stats as any other regiment of horse however gets a bonus to man power. Players are advised against using this unit due to the fact that there are simply better options for Sweden.

Dragoons

Class: Dragoons
Men: 25/50/75/100
Range: 70
Accuracy: 40
Reload: 25
Melee: 7
Charge: 10
Defence: 6
Morale: 6
Cost: 860
Unit Limit: None

Just like the other cavalry units Sweden gets they have the same stats as other factions and a bonus to manpower. However the dragoons benefit greatly from the bonus to manpower as they can be more effective in melee and dismounted they are do more damage when firing. This unit is highly recommended and is arguably one of the best support units available.

Heavy Cavalry

Class: Heavy Cavalry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Melee: 16
Charge: 14
Defence: 10
Morale: 9
Cost: 920
Unit Limit: None

Just like the very good heavy cavalry unit Great Britian gets, Sweden also receives this unit however with a bonus to manpower and stats that are only slightly inferior to Life Guards of Horse, this unit is very effective and highly recommended.

New Players

If you have less than 250 hours of playtime, you are urged to skip this section and continue on to the section titled "United States."

Experienced Players

If you have over 250 hours of playtime, you are urged to skip the section titled "United States" since there is no ♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥♥ reason for you to be using them once you've learned the ropes. A very important thing to keep in mind is that people who usually play as the United States are extremly low quality players. Most of them don't know what they are doing and are just picking the United States because "the flag is similar to the one waving outside my trailer park." Some of these players don't even have a steam profile. So be wary of USA users as most times they are not even worth playing. Don't be a low quality, trailer park dwelling, profileless pleb who nobody wants to play against.

Here are three examples of what you can expect from these types of players.

General Specialties

Without DLC, the United States aren't too great. It simply specializes in militia-style units. However, the United States, with DLC, can be summed up as "Training Wheels: The Faction." The United States are laughably overpowered due to a few ridiculously stacked units and no real weaknesses except a lack of decent cavalry. As a result, this faction should be used by new players who are just learning, but shouldn't be used by players who are worth their salt.

Notable Units

Pioneer Militia

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 90
Accuracy: 25
Reload: 10
Attack: 7
Charge: 8
Defence: 4
Morale: 4
Cost: 270
Unit Limit: None

Just like the cheap Ottoman irregulars, these troops are not very good and the only good thing they can do is hide while moving. This unit should never be used, at all.

Milita Infantry

Class: Milita
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 25
Reload: 10
Attack: 7
Charge: 11
Defence: 9
Morale: 4
Cost: 480
Unit Limit: None

If militia wasn't bad enough, Militia Infantry takes it a step further by carrying less ammo and still costing the same. You should pretty much never use this unit.

Minutemen

Class: Milita
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 30
Reload: 15
Attack: 8
Charge: 5
Defence: 6
Morale: 6
Cost: 570
Unit Limit: None

Tied with Palestinian Auxiliaries for the title of best milita unit in the game, Minutmen are capable of unleashing a deadly volley due to the fact that they have the skirmish ability. It is excellent in ambushes and can be considered one of only two militia units that can stand any chance at all in a toe to toe fight with Line Infantry. This unit is very highly recommended.

Long Rifle Men

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 75
Reload: 35
Attack: 7
Charge: 9
Defence: 7
Morale: 6
Cost: 680
Unit Limit: None

This unit is one of the reasons why the United States are considered unbalanced. While having a tiny bit less morale, this unit has superior accuracy, and can move while hidden. This combined with a very marginal price increase makes it highly recommended.

Morgan's Provisional Rifle Corp

Class: Light Infantry
Men: 20/40/60/80
Range: 125
Accuracy: 80
Reload: 35
Attack: 10
Charge: 10
Defence: 8
Morale: 9
Cost: 720
Unit Limit: 1

This is the only professional unit of riflemen that the United States can recruit and is the third best unit of riflemen overall. Due to its vast increase in all stats, and its relatively acceptable price, this unit is very highly recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

United States Marines

Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 30/60/90/120
Range: 70
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 45
Attack: 10
Charge: 14
Defence: 17
Morale: 9
Cost: 810
Unit Limit: None (for some godamned reason)

This unit is underpriced and for reasons unknown. Despite costing the same as Prussian or British Line Infantry, they can utterly crush the two aforementioned units. They are good elite infantry despite having less men. Using this unit alot will really damage someone's image of being a good player. While good, players are strongly discouraged from using this unit due to how unbalanced and game-ruining it is. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

2nd New York

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Reload: 25
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defence: 15
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Unit Limit:1

This unit of line infantry has a boost to its defense skill. This, combined with a nice skin, and improved morale makes it a good choice for delaying a charge in an area. This unit is recommended. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

1st Delaware

Class: Line Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 45
Reload: 25
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defence: 13
Morale: 9
Cost: 850
Unit Limit: 1

This unit is very good due to its improved accuracy. Additionally, it has a fairly low price. These two factors compensate for its rather silly hats and grant it our seal of approval. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Legion of the United States


Class: Light Infantry
Men: 30/60/90/120
Range: 90
Accuracy: 50
Reload: 35
Attack: 9
Charge: 12
Defense: 13
Morale: 8
Cost: 910
Unit Limit: None

This is Frei-Korps for the United States and receives melee skills that are, on paper the equivalent of Line Infantry. Additionally, this unit is better than standard Line Infantry in a head on shootout. This unit, while good, is not recommended for newer players, nor is it recommended if one is facing a faction with good riflemen. This unit comes with the "Elite Units of The West" DLC pack.

1st Maryland


Class: Elite Infantry
Men: 40/80/120/160
Range: 70
Accuracy: 55
Reload: 50
Attack: 10
Charge: 14
Defence 17
Morale: 9
Cost: 1020
Unit Limit: 1

This unit is a firing drill away from being with Guards and superior line infantry. Yes, that's right, it rank fires instead of platoon firing. Great Stats and a fair price make this unit highly recommended. This unit is comes with the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Pulaski's Legion


Class: Lancers
Men: 15/30/45/60
Attack: 9
Charge: 25
Defence: 7
Morale: 8
Cost: 770
Unit Limit: 1

This unit of lancers is the only intresting, well priced, and fast moving cavalry America gets and thus is highly recommeded. This unit is part of the "Elite Units of America" DLC pack.

Introduction

There are certain kinds of people you should almost instantly kick from your games. This section will be dedicated to paying tribute to all of them.

Non-English Speakers

This goes without saying. Obviously if you've made it this far into the guide then you're not one of these people. The reason here really boils down to the fact that if you can't speak English, then you can't follow the rules, because you obviously can't follow rules that you can't understand. In my experience, the two most common culprits seem to be the South Americans who instantly switch to Spain, ready up without asking about the rules, and then spam Guardias de Infanteria; and people from Turkey who instantly switch to the Ottoman Empire, ready up without inquiring about the rules, spam Janissaries, and then are shocked to find out that the Janissaries are not conventional elite infantry.

People Who Haven't Set Up Their Profiles

If they can't take five minutes to throw some silly picture over that ugly question mark, then it's unlikely that they have more than 50 hours of playtime. It's also equally unlikely that they will follow your rules or give you a good match.

People With Clan Tags

Now, this is a touchy subject since a lot of people have these unsightly additions tacked onto their names. The trouble with these people isn't actually that they're bad (many are perfectly decent players), it's that many of them often complain about the rules needlessly, and then have rather poor in battle practices. These include: meatshielding (which is really just cutting corners to save time on executing proper maneuvers), wasting peoples time by running away when they have very clearly lost (if you have one unit left and the enemy has their entire army intact, don't bother running, just fetch a pillow, close your eyes, and lay down), using units incorrectly (that's right, Line Infantry IS NOT for skirmishing), and finally, they're used to playing with armies that consist mainly of the least balanced units available (Riflemen and Light Dragoons.) Welcome them into your games at your own discretion.

Spammers

The spammer is often a 90 year old Stalingrad veteran who still wears his ushanka and sits in his trench screaming at his men that if they rout, they will be shot. Such tactics are, again, in very poor taste, unprofessional, and teetering on being barbaric because the fact of the matter is that if you deploy a million men and the enemy deploys a dozen, and his dozen die, taking 900,000 of yours with them, you're probably doing something wrong and you're probably going to get royally annihilated once those losses catch up.

Outside of The Battle

There are a few important things that players should look into before clicking the green check-mark and going into battle.

1. Always keep battle flags and unit information tabs on. These options are found in the interface settings.

2. Use the debug camera. This camera style allows the player to fly anywhere and everywhere with their camera. This camera style is enabled by modifying a value within the preferences_script.txt file within one's Appdata folder.

3. Improve your camera speed and camera turn speed to your liking. Flying across the field quickly is rather important.

4. Keep your profile private.

5. If you open up Steam Overlay and click on the "View Players" button found in the bottom left of the overlay, a menu should come up that lists all the people in your lobby. From here, you can go to other players' profiles and spy on them. What's the point? It's really rather simple. Doing this, assuming that their profile is not private, allows you to see how many hours of playtime they have, and what achievments they have. The below chart notes my subjective ideas of what you can determine about a player based upon their playtime and achievments.

6. Have a plan, but be flexible and ready to change it.

7. Anyone can be a good defender, the best players are those that master the art of attacking.

8. Small battle size is bugged as ♥♥♥♥. Because non-rank firing units can be stretched to one rank, they can in theory and in practice match rank firing units in terms of firepower. For reference, Beylik Janissary Musketeers stretched to one rank can compete with Prussian Line Infantry. Additionally, on small battle size, no unit (aside from Austrian Line Infantry) has enough men to actually form a square. Finally, because percussive shells kill everything within x-feet of the shell's impact point, it is possible for a percussion shell to almost, if not completely one shot kill an entire unit, though this will take some luck.

9. Practice good in game etiquette. When joining, say hello and ask about the rules. Make sure to let the host know that you understand the rules. This should go without saying, but keep flaming, griefing, trolling, and backtalk to a minimum.

Hours To Skill Level

1-75 Hours

These people are usually, for lack of a better word, garbage. Bring some silly army, or an experimental army you've been meaning to try. If they have the Marshal's Baton achievment, it's very possible that they've just been fighting the AI. They know nothing. These players usually have one command star.

76-150

These players are transitioning and will provide a slightly greater challenge though expect a lot of sloppy errors. If they have the Marshal's Baton achievment, then they've either farmed it, or are ahead of the curve. You'll notice a slight improvement in the way that units are used though their overall movements are chaotic and disorganized in nature. These players, assuming they've been playing ranked matches, should have two or three command stars.

151-250

These players are average. Hours 151-250 ought to mark the beginning of a player coming into their own. You should notice a significant increase in quality with these players though it's important to note that they are unlikely to have yet discovered or developed any sort of advanced tactics. These people are often in the phase of just trying to defend...or camp (there's a difference, dammit.) Assuming this person has been playing multiplayer regularly, there ought to be approximately a 40% chance that they have the Marshal's Baton. These players, assuming they've been playing ranked matches, ought to have four or five command stars.

251-500

Simply put, these players are starting to get good. By this point they ought to have their Marshal's Baton and are probably going to be employing some rudimentary maneuvers. These players, assuming they've been playing ranked matches, ought to have six or seven command stars.

501-850

These people ought to have every aspect of multiplayer learned in full and they all ought to have the Marshal's Baton. While they are good, more veteran players can overcome them due to the fact that the more experienced generals have simply had more time to perfect some of the fine little detailed aspects of the game. These players, assuming they've been playing ranked matches, ought to have eight or nine command stars.

851+

You are expected to make few or no mistakes, and none will be tolerated. By this point you should be the cream of the crop. These players, assuming they've been playing ranked matches, ought to have nine command stars.

Introduction

Now, I'll preface this by saying that I had sincerely hoped that I wouldn't have to add this section. Not only am I rather lazy, but you'd think this is common sense. You'd hope that the average person wouldn't have to be reminded that teamwork is important. However, as the above image shows, many people have a difficult time grasping the idea that teamwork may be of help to them in their bid to achieve superiority over their foes.

The Essence of Teamwork

What is the essence of teamwork? The answer to this question is rather simple. Teamwork is, in its simplest form, understanding. It is an understanding of not only the physical condition in which your ally's forces are, but also your ally's mindset and playstyle. The essence of effective teamwork is then, the application of your understanding regarding you ally with the intent to aid them, or at least make their lives easier. So, let's go over some basic pointers of how you can effectively help your teammate.

General Information

1. Talk. Communicate. If there's no communication between allies then many 2v2s and 3v3s may as well be 1v1s that just so happen to have some friendly and enemy forces fighting nearby. Keep your ally updated about your situation, and keep them updated about anything you observe that may be of interest. This includes enemy combatants preparing to mount an attack, hidden enemy units, or your intent to attack an area. Having two sets of eyes watching the field is very helpful and will reduce errors.

2. Make sure that you and your ally are on the same page. If you camp and your ally advances, I can personally guarantee that things will end badly. Your ally will walk head on into a 2v1, you will sit an watch as your ally is almost instantly eviscerated, and finally, the remaining enemy forces (which will almost certainly outnumber you, unless your ally is a hell of a fighter) will turn their bloodthirsty gaze in your direction. To this end, if your ally advances, you advance. If you camp, your ally camps. Remember, you're fighting as a team.

3. The ultimate form of teamwork is physical support. Nothing is more satisfying than watching your enemy, just 50 yards from your general, turn face and start to fall back in the face of your ally's overwhelming reinforcements (think fascists circa 1943). Now, I consider there to be two forms of physical support. Direct and indirect physical support. Direct physical support is a supporting method in which you actually dedicate soldiers and attack your ally's enemy. Indirect support is a supporting method in which you position soldiers so as to create the impression (on your enemy) that you are about to attack him, or pose some sort of significant threat. This method, is not only far less costly in terms of manpower, but is also very effective at draining manpower away from your ally's enemy's frontline. That said, indirect support is less effective in the sense that if your ally's enemy calls your bluff, then your maneuvering is for nothing, unless of course you decide to follow through and engage in direct support of your ally.

4. It's a good idea for someone to take charge. If you see your ally making a grave error in judgement, then discourage them, and stop them from doing so. Additionally, if you sense opportunity, order your ally to assist. Don't hesistate to take charge, but don't hesitate to listen to your subordinates.

5. Don't idle. As soon as you can free up men to send to your ally, do so. Likewise, when you are losing, consider falling back to your ally.

Here are some tips and things to keep in mind when selecting your army.

Golden Rule: Your army does not at all need to be good. It just has to be better than the enemy's army.

Other Important Tips

1. You want at least six units of line infantry in your army. There are some exceptions, for example on Homestead you can make do with about five due to the fact that movement is heavily restricted.

2. If you have a lot of elite infantry you are probably lacking else where in your army.

3. It is highly recommeded to put at least 1XP on light cavalry and lancers.

4. Light cavalry are more convenient than heavy cavalry and more versatile.

5. Only use 90 range light infantry against nations with average quality riflemen or in situations where you are certain that you can get the jump on the longer ranged units. In open field battles, the only 90 range light infantry units worth using are Frei-Korp, Legion of The United States, Grenzers, and Roger's Rangers.

6. Grenadiers should generally operate in groups of two.

7. Keep the terrain and climate in mind when chosing units.

8. Consider basing the faction that you use on what the enemy is using. For example, do not use Russia when fighting Prussia.

9. Do you find yourself having too much money left over? Check your army again. Do you still find that you have too much money left over? Buy support units such as dragoons or horse artillery and send them to help your ally.


Unit Experience

Unit experience, XP, chevrons, refers to the little upward pointing gold arrows on red background, next to a unit's thumbnail. Each point of experience adds two points of accuracy, two points of reload skill, one point of melee attack, and one point of melee defense to a unit. In addition, every odd numbered experience level will give you an extra point of morale, meaning that a level one unit has one extra morale, a level three unit has two extra morale, and so on. You can add experience to units before the battle in the army creation screen though of course your units will also earn experience as they fight and kill enemy forces. As a rule of thumb, upgrading a unit is less cost efficient than just buying a better unit. For instance, Minutemen with 5xp have the same shooting stats as line infantry, yet cost very significantly more than Line Infantry. The formula for calculating the cost of upgrading a unit to a certain level can be calculated using the formula ((X/10) + (15+(5Y)) where X is the MP recruitment cost of the unit, and Y represents the level of experience.

Example: Windbuschenjager cost a clean 1000 credits to buy. So you'd divide 1000/10 and get 100, and then you would add (15+(5Y)) where Y=1 (meaning the unit is being upgraded to level one) for a total cost of 120 credits. The level 2 upgrade would then cost you 125 credits, and the level 3 would cost you 130 credits.

In summary, experience should be given out sparingly, and in an ideal world rather than just upgrading a unit with experience you should simply buy a better unit.

Introduction

Infantry is the backbone of your army. Anywhere from 50-75% of your army should be line style units. In this case, line style units refers to almost any 70 ranged unit.

General Information

Some concepts are applicable to all forms of infantry.

1. If you intend to move into melee, the best formation is generally wide. You may want to consider using Fire and Advance before closing in so as to soften your target while reducing your losses, this is especially important when using units that are good in melee but lose out in shootouts. For instance, Bulkeley's Regiment will generally lose to Scots in a shootout, but will crush Scots in a melee. Consequently, it is best to employ Fire and Advance (usually in two ranks depth) and then follow through with a charge.

2. Generally, when firing units should be spread thin so as to reduce losses from small arms fire, and increase their initial volley strength. Two ranks is usually appropriate, though note that wider formations will sustain greater losses from cavalry charges, and are quite a bit more cumbersome to maneuver with.

3. Using infantry as a reserve is a often a bad idea due to the fact that it's slow to reach an area, and by the time it does reach the area, it's not unlikely that the unit that it will be reinforcing will have been beaten already. This would leave the reinforcing unit vulnerable.

4. Always avoid attacking head on unless you are absolutely 100% certain that your attack will succeed. If you're wrong, the attack will almost guarantee a catastrophe.

5. If a unit platoon fires, its reload skill will cease to matter while it is platoon firing. This is due to a reload modifier that virtually guarantees near-instant reloads while the unit is platoon firing. Therefore, accuracy, morale, and number of men are all that count.

6. Let's dispel this fiction that rank fire beats platoon fire. It does not, except in rare situations where the rank firing unit has vastly better stats or far more manpower. Additionally, most of the weapons in a platoon firing unit's first rank are loaded at any given time, this cannot be said about rank firing units. As a result, platoon firing units can very quickly stop platoon firing and redirect a good amount of fire at a cavalry unit.

7. If possible, engage the enemy with fire at point blank range. The closer you are to your enemy, the more likely your rounds are to strike them. This was tested by me and Brad and we can guarantee that you'll see a significant increase in the damage that your units do when firing their weapons at close range.

8. Be mindful that the concept of the beaten zone applies in Empire: Total War. As such, you will inflict slightly more casualties when engaging an enemy from the side. This again, was determined based upon a series of tests run be me and Brad.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Field_of_fire_(weaponry)

9. Based upon points nine and ten, the most effective method for engaging an enemy is to (if possible) engage at nearly point blank range, and from the enemy's flank.

10. Try to form square when attacked by cavalry. Note, though, that units in square formation will be more vulnerable to artillery and musket fire. However, square formation also seems to improve a unit's survival rate in melee against other infantry units.

Militia

These units can be described as line infantry that's really bad. Their general purpose is to provide support for your men who are worth half a ♥♥♥♥, knock out any isolated and weakened units that they can manage to find, and in certain situations, screen for units that need screening, such as hand mortars or perhaps grenadiers.

Line Infantry

These units are the bread and butter of your infantry forces. Like bread and butter, they are very simple. Their main purpose is to deliver fire against an enemy, and soak up enemy fire. Nine out of ten times, they will act as your holding forces if you try to employ any sort of more complex strategy.

Grenadiers

These men can be described as demi-elites. They're very high quality, spectacularly deadly, and good at pretty much any form of combat. They do have weaknesses however, all of which stem from their relatively short range, slow run speed, and small unit size. These three factors make them vulnerable to attack from behind by heavy cavalry and guard cavalry units (moreso than Line Infantry or Guards), and vulnerable to any kind of concentrated gunfire. As a rule, Grenadiers should move in groups of two so that one unit can fire, and one can throw grenades. Throwing grenades is very effective and can easily kill 80-100 men in an instant. Grenadiers are excellent for driving back enemy infantry, or forming gaps in the enemy line which can then be exploited.

Elite Infantry

Simply put, these men are souped up line infantry. These men look nicer, and hit harder. They excell at helping to stabilize and defend a portion of a line that you believe will come under heavy attack and are good at quickly knocking out enemy units and forming gaps in the enemy line. They are vulnerable to light infantry, and artillery.

Introduction

Light Infantry is arguably one of your most important support units as it has greater firepower and longevity than artillery, and is absolutely essential in keeping enemy light infantry from harassing your line.

General Information

Some concepts are applicable to virtually all light infantry units.

1. With few exceptions, light infantry should always be in light infantry formation.

2. If your light infantry unit is firing at an enemy unit and then that enemy unit moves out of range of your light infantry, move your light infantry one pace back or else they will continue to fire and waste ammunition. This is very important for fast firing light infantry units.

3. If your light infantry can move while hidden, it is often a good idea to try and move them around the sides of, or even behind the enemy army.

4. If an enemy starts to get very close, withdraw, do not try to take line or elite infantry head on with light infantry. You will lose.

5. If an enemy starts to come within range of your line infantry, it's not always a bad idea to have your light infantry form up into line formation. Obviously though, don't keep them in front of the line infantry, as that will result in friendly fire.

6. PLACE STAKES. Those thin wooden spikes are, apparently, bulletproof and even cannonball-proof. Therefore, they make excellent cover. However, it works both ways meaning that neither you, nor the enemy will really be able to do too much damage to each other if you try to shoot through stakes. Stakes are also very effective for denying an area to enemy cavalry, in fact, it's their primary purpose.

7. Light infantry should either go in front of your main line to deter enemy light infantry, or it should go on your flanks so that you can roll up enemy infantry formations.

8. Light Infantry is best deployed in wide formations as deeper formations, even in light infantry formation will sustain heavier casualties.

90 Range Light Infantry

These units, unfortunately, get the ♥♥♥♥ end of the stick in most situations. They're never as accurate as, nor do they have the range that riflemen have. Very few of these units can even begin to compete with riflemen head on. The only exceptions might be some of Great Britain's unique rangers, and Grenzers. These units are, however, arguably better than riflemen for ambushing due to that fact that they have faster reload speed modifiers, and often better melee stats. As a result, they usually make better dedicated defensive troops than riflemen, provided that you can find a good hiding place for them, or find a way to negate the Riflemen's first volley/range advantage. They're usually rather cost effective, though best bolstered with some chevrons (XP).

Hybrid Line-Light Infantry

These units have to be my personal favorite light infantry units. The Legion of The United States, and Frei-Korp both receive massive 50% increases to manpower, increases to morale, and increases to reload speed at the expense of not being able to place stakes, and having slightly less accuracy than regular Light Infantry. As a result, these units are purely offensive in nature. They simply run up to the riflemen, who are unable to kill the overwhealming numbers of enemy light infantry, and then return fire that is slightly less accurate, but is delivered far more quickly. This unit when formed in a line can also beat standard Line Infantry in a shootout. It is however, rather vulnerable to flat firing artillery's cannister shot and as a result, should avoid engaging where there is artillery, or in situations where friendly artillery has not yet gained the upper hand.

Rifle Armed Units

These units are the most common light infantry units seen in battle. This is because they are cheap, deadly, and versatile. They can fill defensive roles, as well as offensive roles. Their main disadvantages are their very very slow reload times which make them vulnerable against cavalry, or in certain situations enemy infantry.

Introduction

Many players dismiss melee cavalry and dragoons as useless. This usually stems from an almost addiction-like attachment to missile cavalry units which do in fact outclass melee cavalry and proper dragoons units. However, upon further examination one can see that melee cavalry is not only effective, but almost a kingmaker in infantry engagements. Cavalry's main jobs are to support, to distract, and to deter.

General Information

Certain ideas are applicable to all forms of cavalry.

1. Never ever engage in combat against a unit of infantry in square formation.

2. Never ever engage in prolonged combat against a unit of infantry unless you are certain that you can win.

3. Below 50-ish men, enemy units will not be able to form square.

4. Always attempt to attack from high ground.

5. Unless time is of the essence, don't run. Tired units do poorly in melee.

6. Thinly spread enemy units will sustain heavy casualties from cavalry charges.

7. Enemy units that have sustained heavy casualties will almost certainly rout when charged.

8. Always seek to attack enemy units from behind, if you attack from the front, order your cavalry to run through the enemy unit, as this will cause the enemy unit to think it's being attacked from the rear.

9. Cavalry is excellent at interrupting enemy infantry's firing drill and therefore should try to engage in melee while the enemy is in the middle of firing.

10. To juice the most out of a unit's charge bonus, the ideal formation is two ranks deep. Thin formations have reduced vulnerability to artillery, a wider area for their charge to impact, and after charging are capable of wrapping around enemy formations creating an "attacked in flank" or "attacked in rear" debuff. Note though, that a two rank formation may increase vulnerability to musket fire, is a bit more clumsy, and will be absolutely devastated by stakes.

Light Cavalry

This cavalry is the most versatile and is my favorite. A good light cavalry unit can play both defensively and offensively. Its speed and stamina give it a large range of operation, and if the unit has good stats, it can be used to defend against enemy cavalry. This means that light cavalry can quickly strike targets almost anywhere, or prevent enemy cavalry from striking you. Light cavalry, however, is very fragile and vulnerable to small arms and heavy cavalry.

Medium Cavalry

This cavalry is probably one of the more useless types as it will often lose to some of the better light cavalry units, and it will lose to virtually any heavy cavalry/guard cavalry units. Additionally, it isn't very fast either. Overall this cavalary should be avoided and only used if nothing better is available for whatever reason.

Lancers

This cavalry is dedicated shock cavalry. While the average Uhlans aren't very good, virtually all the unique lancers are worth buying. Lancers are very good due to the fact that under the right circumstances they can beat far heavier cavalry units, and under normal circumstances, can be described as weaker versions of light cavalry. They can run down artillery, and light infantry, then flee when heavy cavalry or guard cavalry approaches. However, other than their charge, they should be passed up on in favor of light cavalry.

Dragoons

Dragoons are excellent due to the fact that they move at a reasonable speed, and can do a variety of different things. Not only can they deliver fire where needed, but they can also run down enemy artillery, run down enemy light infantry, and interrupt enemy firing drills. They are however at a loss in melee and stand no chance in melee against any other kind of cavalry or infantry.

Elephants

Elephants are the ultimate cavalry for shock and awe. Their charge can send scores of men flying, break squares, and make the most disciplined units disperse. They are best employed to start off and attack because once your men are in melee, those elephants do not distinguish between friend and foe, and will throw everyone around. While they have a lot of health, enemy units will employ their firing drills against them (unlike regular cavalry units), negating this advantage. They are also very vulnerable to round shot. They are dedicated offensive cavalry.

Heavy Cavalry/Guard Cavalry

While heavy cavalry and guard cavalry are distinguished by quality and appearance, they are functionally identical. Both are slow moving, have low stamina, and are very hard hitting. As a result they excell at more defensive roles due to their short range of operation. These units are simply designed to employ brute force to smash and hack anything into tiny little pieces.

Introduction

Artillery is an important part of any well balanced army. It serves a few major purposes. First, it is a very good deterrent against cavalry because of how large a taget cavalry is. Second, it provides counter battery fire and will keep you safe from enemy artillery. Third, it can provide supporting fire for infantry. And finally, it can help convince an enemy to attack before he is ready.

General Information

Some concepts can be applied to all artillery units.

1. Always manually aim.

2. Never unnecessarily risk your artillery, protect it.

3. Artillery is invulnerable to small arms fire while limbered, though round shot will instantly kill the entire crew.

4. Try to engage targets out of range by manually aiming your artillery.

5. Your number one threat is always light infantry, particularly riflemen.

6. But watch out for cavalry.

7. Should you lose the ability to move your artillery, for instance as a result of it being attacked in melee while unlimbered, be mindful of the fact that your artillery crews can capture and use enemy artillery guns provided that those guns are of the same culture (European versus Eastern nations), same type (foot artillery, horse artillery, howitzers), and same calibre as the guns they were originally using. For instance an Austrian 24lber Foot Artillery crew could capture the guns of a 24lber Foot Guard Artillery unit and turn them on the enemy. Note that Puckle Guns don't have this ability.

Shots

One of the unique aspects of artillery is that it has a variety of shot types to choose from. Each artillery shot has it's own purpose.

Round Shot

Range: 350 for Howitzers, 400 for flat firing artillery.

Round shot is the default shot for all artillery units except puckle guns. It serves three major purposes. First, to knock out enemy cavalry. Second, to knock out enemy artillery that is limbered. And third, to attack targets where accuracy is key, for example the enemy general. Additionally, round shot is the best tool to destroy buildings.

Shrapnel Shot

Range: 350

This shot is available to all flat firing cannons. It is a dedicated anti-personnel round that actually works best when employed on targets that are out of range, it can, of course be employed on targets within range.

Cannister Shot

Range: 125

Cannister shot is the ultimate anti-personnel shot at close range. It effectively converts your flat firing cannons into massive shotguns that all at once unleash a hail of 50 musket balls at the enemy.

Quicklime

Range: 350

Quicklime is effectively yesterday's poison gas. It is incredibly effective against any tightly massed formations, and can do significant damage to infantry even if the infantry is in an elongated formation. It is, however, not very useful against units in light infantry formation, or cavalry units that are moving.

Percussive Shell Shot

Range: 350

Percussive shells are inferior to quicklime as an anti-personnel round though they fill a niche role of being able to attack targets out of range and being a bit more effective against units in light infantry formation. Their maximum reach is approximately 375-390.

Artillery Types

Foot Artillery

This artillery generally fills a more defensive role as it is slow moving and accurate. Therefore it works best in a stationary position. It costs a little less than horse artillery and is a little more accurate, with some exceptions. Puckle Guns should not be used at all. These guns have great difficulty attacking due to how slow they are, and the fact that they cannot fire at an arc.

Howitzers

Howitzers are somewhere in the middle between offensive and defensive artillery. While they are slow moving, they are fairly accurate, and are very very good at attacking defensive positions that are behind hills or firing on advancing enemies from behind hills. They are, however, at a disadvantage on flat terrain due to the fact that they have less range. They are very deadly.

Horse Artillery

Horse Artillery is offensive artillery. It is fast moving, and fairly accurate allowing you to position it where you need it, when you need it there. On flat terrain it can take out howitzers due to its ranged advantage, and on hilly terrain in can simply run to a more favorable position. This is overall the best kind of artillery.

Introduction

These next few sections will delve into some of me and Brad's favorite maps. I decided that there were just too many maps, and that too many of them sucked for me to dedicate my time to analyzing each of them. Knowing the map is something that many people overlook, and that many people pay a very high price for not being aware of. To this end, you should always know the map, and its terrain (at least the basic layout) before going headlong into a match.

Recommended Attire

You may need reading glasses to see some of the points I've marked.

Player Spawnpoints

Something that many plebeians seem to not realize is that you spawnpoint is determined based upon the order in which you joined and not where your name actually appears in the lobby. So think twice before switching teams and switching back.

Introduction

Caucasus, as you can see from the above image, is a map that is mostly flat and goes downhill in one direction. I'd have to say that it's probably my favorite 1v1 map.

Points of Interest

1. This is the highest point on the map. Controlling it while possessing superior artillery will almost certainly give you the upper hand and will likely force an enemy to fall back in the direction of positions five and six.

2. This little group of trees can hide a few units and consequently can cause some problems for someone advancing across position nine. If the enemy has artillery on position one, control of position one, and is aware of your presence at position two, you should vacate position two immediately.

3. Though less useful for ambushing than position two, position three can be used as a staging ground for an attack (or counter-attack) on position one. Additionally, if you wish to remain hidden at position three, then the enemy might accidentally move their artillery into range at which point you can subdue them. Be aware though that if enemies at positon one are aware of your presence, then they can simply flush you out with artillery.

4. Position four is player two's (not the host's) spawn arguably has a superior position from which to stage ambushes and dig in on the low ground.

5. The major ambushing position of the map. An enemy who is on the losing end of things, or is fond of ambushes will almost certainly make use of this rectangle shaped forest due to the fact that the long side of the rectangle will provide a good volume of fire, and the short side of the rectangle can recieve supporting fire from position six.

6. Position six is very important for player two when he is staging a flanking attack, or has been put on the defensive due to the fact that there is a somewhat steep downhill on the backside of position six which offers significant shelter from artillery. Position six is essential when trying to endure artillery bombardment from position one. This protection from artillery will also allow forces to loiter there waiting for the forces that may be pinning them down to be forced back somehow.

7. This is likely where player two (not the host) will be making his last stand. Other than a few hills that may obstruct units' lines of fire, the area is relatively easy to attack, but again, make sure you've cleared position five first or else you may find your self subjected to a painful flanking attack.

8. This is likely where player one (the host) will be making his last stand. It's high ground. This is a blessing and a curse. While position eight will not be easy to take with infantry, it is extremely vulnerable to artillery. Players attacking position eight may want to try and take position one, though this is not essential.

9. This is the kill zone. This flat area is usually where most of the fighting takes place. You don't want to be caught out here if your artillery or at least riflement haven't gained the upper hand.

10. Player one (the host's) spawn really has no significant benefit except for one. Player one, spawns arguably closer to position one. This, and player two's spawn being better for ambushing obviously have a slight effect on the dynamics between player one and player two in terms of who attacks and who defends, though this is negligible.

Introduction

Alpine Pass is a mostly flat map that provides fairly little shelter from artillery but surprisingly often results in some interesting flanking maneuvers.

Points of Interest

1. This is host's spawn. It is a fairly unremarkable position that really doesn't offer much protection from artillery. However, its easy access to position six provides the host with significant benefit.

2. This is player two's spawn. Player two is provided with better access to positions seven and eight. Additionally, as you can see, player two has some slight high ground over player one in addition to slightly more opportunities to lay ambushes. Players might camp here.

3. The area around positions one and three is often where player one will make his last stand. Other than a few trees on the side which can make flanking ambushes a risk, the host's last stand area is a very ♥♥♥♥♥♥ place to find yourself.

4. Position four is often where player two will make his last stand. This is undoubtedly a tricky position to attack due to the fact that position four is situated on high ground AND provides some level of cover in the form of trees in which VCs enemies can hide. That said, this position should fall eventually in the face of concentrated artillery bombardment. Additionally, while position eight may provide cover from artillery, it also creates a blind spot for player two's flat firing guns meaning that the host can flank around position eight and rake units that are situated at position four.

5. This is the main kill zone of Alpine Pass. This is where most of the killing occurs and is a place that you do not want to be if your rifles or artillery haven't gained the upper hand. There really isn't much cover here.

6. Position six is fairly important to player one. It may not be clear on the above image, but if you look closely you'll see that there's a rather lengthy indentation in the ground that can be used by player one as a trench which he can use to shelter men from artillery and perhaps launch flanking attacks on positions two, four, and five via position seven.

7. Position seven marks a forest which is the main position from which to flank forces in/shut down attacks coming from position six. If you're in position six, expect something to try and push you out of position six via position seven. As with all forests, advancing units should be wary of potential ambushes.

8. Position eight is a rather odd looking, large mound located in front of player two's spawn. It is a fairly good artillery position as it has a commanding view of positions one and five. However, should units get trapped in position eight (there's only one way in, and only one way out) then position eight will very quickly become a mass grave. Players might camp here.

Introduction

We personally, believe that this is the best multiplayer map in the game. It's scenic, and provides very interesting terrain on which to fight. It's mostly flat, though there are positions where howitzer guns will have an edge.

Points of Interest

1. This is the host's spawn. It has a steep incline and is a fairly strong defensive position though it is lacking in cover (aside from a small forest). Don't be shocked if people camp here. The host has easy access to position six.

2. This is player two's spawn. It has easy access to positions 10, 11, and 12. Don't be shocked if people camp here.

3. This is player three's spawn. Player three has easy access to positions seven and 13. Player three however, has the least cover of all four spawns. Nonetheless, don't be surprised if someone tries to camp here.

4. This is player four's spawn. Player four only really has easy access to position 10. However, position four is in itself an incredibly strong defensive position. At its front it has an incredibly steep incline. Behind position four there is a downhill slope from which howitzers can fire with impunity. And to the right of position four (think position seven, though slightly more in the direction of position four) there is more high ground which can be used to create a deadly field of fire on troops that may be advancing unsupported on the front slope of position four or are stuck in the kill zone. Definitely expect people to camp here. It's not unlikely for both players of alliance two to try camping here.

5. As you'll notice, position five appears twice on the above image. Position five in this case represents common kill zones on provence. These points are where most of the fighting usually occurs.

6. Position six is a small hill near player one's spawn. It's a fairly decent position for artillery to fire from or for cavalry to hide behind. When attempting to place artillery on it, one should note that if player two is quick, he can likely get in range of your guns with light infantry and knock them out. This though, assumes that you've used horse artillery to rush to the point and have failed to keep supporting units nearby.

7. Position seven marks the highest point overlooking position four. Position four, as stated before is a very formidable defensive position, and player three's spawn was noted as being unremarkable. Player three's ability to quickly access position seven makes up for player three's rather uninteresting spawn. Should player three, or alliance one manage to get superior artillery troops onto position seven. They can without a doubt drive player four (or alliance two if players two and four both decide to camp at position four) to the backside of his slope where he will effectively crammed and vulnerable in like fish in a can.

8. Position eight marks three points where alliance two players will frequently fall back to when beaten. One of these points is located on the backside of position four, sheltered from artillery but vulnerable nonetheless. Another is located one the backside of player two's high ground, sheltered from artillery, but again, vulnerable. The third is located in the corner edge of the map, near player two's spawn. Of the three positions to retreat to, this one is marginally harder than the others to attack (with the exception of the back slope of position four when it is defended by two people.) This third defensive position is somewhat tricky as it's rather spacious in contrast the the other two areas and enjoys good protection from artillery.

9. Position nine marks two points where alliance one players will commonly retreat to. Player three's final position isn't terribly good and really isn't worth mentioning for anything other than the fact that it's a very steep uphill. The host's final position can be an absolute nightmare to attack (Normandy Cliffs, red water and sand not included) due to the fact that the cliffs will funnel in any units that attempt to attack from the front and due to the fact that beyond the cliffs there is a slight depression where howitzers can fire from relative safety. Approach the host's final positon with caution.

10. Point 10 marks a significant forest in which a great many units can hide. Due to the thickness of the trees it's difficult for artillery rounds let alone small arms fire to hit anything. Position 10 can be used by alliance two do defend against a flanking attack by player one though such a defensive line would likely be vulnerable to a flanking attack from positions six and 13.

11. Point 11 marks a small hill near player two's spawn which player two will often place artillery upon. Indeed it's a fairly good artillery position that covers much of the kill zone. It is very similar to position six though it isn't located near the center of the map (hot zone). Like position six, it suffers from the same vulnerability against players who would quickly launch attacks against it.

12. Position 12 marks a forest that may not seem too useful, however if properly employed this forest can cause massive and irreperable, even nightmarish damage to player one's attacking forces. Consequently, it's very important that player one thoroughly shells this area to flush out any hidden communists enemy units.

13. Position 13 is noteworthy only in the sense that it provides a good position along which to establish a defensive line to protect against attacks from/put pressure on units in position 10. Position 13 also offers hidden units a good view of the kill zone, and having units in position 13 will impact the strength of forces in position six.

Introduction

Bavaria is argubaly one of the most unbalanced and challenging maps in the game, at least for the team that doesn't get the high ground. In general, good players should consider switching teams when fighting less experienced players so as to give themselves a challenge, and to give the newer players a fair chance. In some ways, the map is a little bit like Waterloo.

Points of Interest

1. This is player one's (usually the host's) spawn. It has a commanding position over virtually all points in front of it with the exception of point 10. Player one has the option of hiding behind the crest of the hill, or simply establishing defensive positons on the front slope.

2. This is players two's spawn. It has easy access to some ambush points but overall isn't very well sheltered from artillery fire that may be incoming from player one's spawn.

3. This is player three's spawn. It has easy access to some ambush points, but more importantly, the elevated rocky outcrops at point seven, and the hill on which artillery can be deployed at point eight.

4. This is player four's spawn. It has easy access to some ambush points, the hill at point nine, but most importantly the backslope of the mound at point 11.

5. This is the killzone. This is usually where much of the fighting happens, and here it can be rather messy due to a lack of cover and foliage.

6. These are ambush points of interest. Players should be mindful of them when planning attacks, or when planning their defense.

7. This is the high ground of the map. It dominates basically the entire kill zone of point five, and some more. Players two and four should expect players one and three to go to great lengths to defend this ground, and if players one and three are beaten, it is likely that this is where they will make their last stand.

8. This hill is important to player three as putting artillery on it allows player three to establish fire control over the only areas not covered adequately from position seven. Player four should make efforts to pressure this hill.

9. This hill is seemingly the highest point on the map, though its use is limited due to the fact that the rocky outcrops on the hill make deploying units on the hill itself rather cumbersome. To this end, point nine is more of a transit point.

10. Position 10 is a mound located just beneath the high ground at point seven. Controlling this point will enable player two to establish fire control over part of the hill which will enable him to establish a foothold on the high ground itself.

11. Position 11 is effectively a depression in the earth at the foot of position nine which is more or less sheltered from artillery fire that may come from position eight. To this end, it is a good staging point for an attack on position eight, and is therefore fairly important to player four.

12. This is an area of the high ground marked by bizarre depressions in the earth, flanked by woods. This position overlooks part of the kill zone, and can be used as a staging point for an ambush. From here, player one can put some pressure on player four.

Introduction

Homestead is a map that is very friendly to artillery, small units, fast units, and very unfriendly to bulky spam armies. It's various hills and ridges mean that most fighting is rather head on, and you will have to rely on outwitting your enemy to establish superiority with your long ranged weapons.

Points of Interest

1. This is player one's (the host's) spawn. It isn't particularly remarkable though it has easy access to several good positions where ambushes can prepared.

2. This is player two's spawn. It also isn't particularly remarkable and has access to some ambushing positions.

3. This is player three's spawn, it has access to some rather lackluster ambushing points, though has access to two mounds that offer good firing positions.

4. This is player four's spawn. It is relatively unremarkable, and has access to some basic ambushing points.

5. This is the killzone, this is the area where both team's artillery guns will likely be trained. Units that find themselves here will likely be tightly packed meaning that their frontal firepower will be reduced, and they will be rather vulnerable to incoming fire.

6. These two routs provide both teams with the option to attempt to flank around the kill zone, thus reducing their vulnerability to enemy artillery, and avoiding a great many choke points. Note though, that these routes are still rather vulnerable to ambushes and are still rather narrow, thus not giving users too much room to work with.

7. These are the valuable ambush points scattered around the map. Hiding units here will help strengthen your defense, and make them less likely to be targetted by enemy artillery.

8. This little mound offers a good vantage point to cover the left end of the kill zone, it is a bit vulnerable to flank attacks, and like all other points on homestead, can get a bit congested.

9. This rocky outcrop is one of the few positions on which flat artillery can perform well. It has a good line of sight over the open area in front of it meaning that taking up this position will aid in providing fire support, or in defending the left end of kill zone.

Information

Syrian Ridge is a large, hot, desert map. It is best saved for larger games as it plays awkwardly when not a lot of players are present. The map slightly favors Eastern nations such as the Ottoman Empire and the Maratha Confederacy.

Points of Interest

1. This is team one's spawn, it has access to a variety of positions.

2. This is team two's spawn, it too has access to a variety of positions.

3. This is the kill zone. The kill zone on Syrian Ridge differs based on where you are on the map, certain parts are suited significantly better to certain types of army builds. The combat is relatively head on but certain positions facilitate combat horizontally too.

4. These two narrow strips of land can be used to sneak, or rapidly push units past the kill zone and to the other side of the map. Due to the width of these paths, units passing through these routes are vulnerable to attack, and are going to get clumped up, making them difficult to maneuver.

5. These positions are good places to set an ambush as they cover frequently traversed areas. Be mindful when your attack plans to pass by these as you could get a nasty surprise.

6. This little mound on the left side of team one's spawn is useful for defending forces as it provides shelter from artillery fire while being able to cover much of position four, and the kill zone near it.

7. This area can be used by both sides to put pressure on the other players on the opposite team's, it is a strategically positioned, elevated flanking route, though it is narrow.

8. This mound provides player one (the host) with a good level of cover from flat firing artillery. Furthermore, this position can be used as a staging ground for attacks on other players on the enemy team.

Empire: Total War has seen better days. While the playerbase is still fairly large, and games still are plentiful, much must be done if we want to ensure not only the continued survival of multiplayer, but the continued survival of high quality multiplayer. What is needed for this is not only new players, but players who are educated to a high standard about how the game ought to be played, and what entails a high quality game. So next time you see a friend who you think may be slipping into the vices of spam, and/or barbarism, help him out. Encourage him to build balanced and diverse armies.

This is a link to the group for all those intrested in Making Multiplayer Great Again. Add one of us and ask to join our group. We hope you've learned a lot. See you online!

http://steamproxy.net/groups/ETWMPC