Yo calm down, there's no need to buy a controller or a wheel (unless you want too)
It works fine with keyboard too.

This guide is focused on keyboard, I wont be using mouse to turn left or right.
It's just the wasd, spacebar, left & right arrow to down shift or up shift and
also if you wanna use a clutcher you can use down arrow.
That's pretty much my keybinds on every racing game that I play and I'm glad they
fit'n'work on this game. I hope there's no need to explain wasd ...

Here's a few notes, of what you should go for on this game after purchasing it;
- Change the automatic to manual gears, that one is obrigatory.
- Go chase the level 11 so you can purchase the Ultimate upgrade. (I know that might be a slow and boring process but trust me), the game only start making sense when you can go around walking sideways without spinning your car on every turn you wont do that without spending some hours on it.

It's never been easier to reach level 11 now than before, due to the GOLD DLC "amplifiers" (experience and ingame cash x2) and there's also 5 millions ingame currency that you can start playing with. I highly recommend grabbing it with the base game. Due to the fact
you can get 500k + ingame cash on each run with those setup's instead 250k which
you might note on the screenshots.

Don't forget to turn off the Steering Assist and also deal with 720° degrees on Steering Angle. At first 720° might be too much, if you find yourself in that position try lowering it to
540° and change that to 720° later on.

Those options you can be found on main screen going to control section, then advanced settings.

For now I have only adjusted 13 cars and those setup's I've been working on, they gave me alot of consistency which is what you should look for on this game due to the grind aspect it has, I can always hit 40,000 + drift score points mark on Springstone Reverse which is the main track I use to grind/farm the ingame currency.

I've only set those cars due to the fact that they have aerokits, which 3 of them are DLC.

- Hachi-Roku (AE86) Class 1 car
- Horizon GT4 (R34) Class 2 car
- Phoenix NX (240SX) Class 2 car
- Burner JDM (Chaser) Class 3 car
- Eva MR (Lancer Evolution IX) Class 3 car [DLC - The Trio Pack]
- DTM 46 (E46) Class 4 car
- Falcon RZ (RX7) Class 4 car
- Wanderer L30 (Supra) Class 5 car
- Spector RS (S15) Class 5 car
- Loki 4m (M4) Class 5 car
- Cobra GT 530 (GT 350R) Class 5 car [DLC - The Trio Pack]
- Atlas GT(R35) Class 5 car
- Voodoo (Viper) Class 5 car [DLC - Power Drift]

Notes:
DLC it add's aerokit on certain cars (for now atleast).
*** cars that is being added to the guide soon.
Also make sure to use ctrl + f and type the name of the car, due to the large amount of
screenshots on this guide.

Let's get started.

Class 1 cars that I adjusted

with Ultimate Upgrade



Here's the results of that adjust.

Class 2 cars that I adjusted

with Ultimate Upgrade


Here's the results of that adjust.






with Ultimate Upgrade



Here's the results of that adjust.

Class 3 cars that I adjusted

with Ultimate Upgrade






Here's the results of that adjust.



with Ultimate Upgrade {DLC*}



Here's the results of that adjust.

Class 4 cars that I adjusted

DTM 46 (E46)

with Ultimate Upgrade





Here's the results of that adjust.

Falcon RZ (RX7)

with Ultimate Upgrade





Here's the results of that adjust.

Class 5 cars that I adjusted

with Ultimate Upgrade


Here's the results of that adjust.


with Ultimate Upgrade


Here's the results of that adjust.

with Ultimate Upgrade


Here's the results of that adjust.

with Ultimate Upgrade {DLC*}


Here's the results of that adjust.

with Ultimate Upgrade


Here's the results of that adjust.


with Ultimate Upgrade Works with plain stock version (no aerokit) but I use the
dlc due to the skin and aerokit. {DLC*}


Here's the results of that adjust.

You can change the gear ratio, to a smaller one so that way you can gear up to 6th gear.
Also worth trying different values on tyre pressure on rear and front tyres.